Also See Ramors - Craigie's Hotel under recent writings  
    

                                       

                                         

                  Shean and Me 
  http://www.sheanlodgefishery.com/  

                                                           

                        - A Ballycroy field sport odyssey

                              


                                      
Introduction

                          

 

                                   I can not tell how the truth may be,

                                   I say the truth as twas said to me.

                                                       REV William        H Maxwell 1892

These are the two first lines from, Maxwells Wild Sports of the West, regarded  

by some to be the best field- sports book ever written. Most of the sporting

action is set in Ballycroy,  near Mulranny ,Co Mayo in the late 1800's. To

reach Ballycroy, Maxwell had no roads , so he travelled from Westport by

sailing boat to Croy lodge situated on the estuary of the Owen Duff river, in

what was and still is a very remote place.  He spent more than three months

hunting, shooting and  fishing with his friend who owned the lodge and

recording his experiences in his book . The following stories relate to the area,

but in particular to Shean, a fishing  Lodge which has been in our family since

the early1940,s .

 

                   Shean is built on the high ground fifty yards from the river

and is serviced by two roads from Ballycroy and Ballveaney that extend  into

bog for three Miles which  expands for many thousands of acres of mountain,

stream, forest  and lakes   .  Next to the house is a large rock named Shean,

meaning in Irish  Fairy. It is said when builders came to construct the

house in the 1850's, when they blasted the rock to make the site larger.

 After the first charge, blood was said to have flowed from the rock. The

terrified builders fled, leaving the rock as it remains today broken in two pieces,

and where guests often go to read in what is the sunniest part of the garden.

 Everyone who ever visited Shean has their own stories about the place   

and its people and this is mine. Inspiration from my childhood mentor and

fishing guide  Frank Mc is never far away , whose  family were and

still are, what makes Shean Lodge  a special place for those of us

who have experienced its wonders.

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,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 contents

 

1 Shean: first visit in 1948
2 An African adventure
3   An adolescent Dream and a Dream fly
4   Worm fishing
5   An American adventure
 6   A house by a river
7   Tea
 The tale of the honest drover
9   Father Morrisons hat
10 Turkeys
11 100% Christmas
12 Victor
13 The shooting lesson / Jamsie
14  Fishing with explosives
15  Beckets eye
16  The Cannon and the condom
17    A pain in the neck
18 Reflection : As told to me by Mr Fred Mac Manamin
19 Bun mor20 about the Neighbours 
21 The Apprentice
22 Ian : Aportrait of a hunter
23 No Fish for Frank by Eric Craigie (my Father)
24 The basking Sharks of Achill
25 Some famous guests of Shean
26Uncle Edward: Near disaster in the SAS building Copenhagen
27 Frank  McManamin (1899-1983)
28 Shean as a family holiday venue
29 A Final dining room story
30 Maxwells : the drowened shepherd

                     

                               
1  
                                                    

                                   Shean:  My first visit in 1948

            It's hard to remember back sixty one years to 1948, but I will do my best. Then preparations were essential when making the 180 mile journey from Dublin to Mayo. The problems were the roads or lack of them, rationed petrol and problematical telephones for seeking forward route information. My Uncle Robert, for some unknown reason suggested that I would accompany him and my grandfather on my first trip to Shean. They arrived at my fathers house to collect me on a fine dry morning in early April at 6am.  Robert drove a bright green 1920 Crossly car, which had a canvass roof, a brass radiator and headlamps. It was a four door car, where the doors closed against each other and the running boards were fitted underneath the doors. Another feature added by my father was a gas producer (used to substitute petrol), which was mounted at the rear of the car.  It looked to me like a series of joined up metal rubbish tins attached by a rubber hose to a canvass balloon mounted on the car roof. A charcoal fire under a dust bin produced gas, which was stored in the balloon and used to drive the car. On either side of the dust bin were extra sacks of charcoal. Stored in  the back of the car, was our food for the stay, plus more charcoal, fishing gear, three spare tyres, and a very large black Labrador dog and of course myself.

            There was no contest for who controlled the back seat, Bobby won every round, spreading himself across the top of the charcoal and leaving a bare amount of room for me, so that it was difficult to know where the dog began and I ended or visa versa, as we both were covered in char-coal dust. My Uncle was a  tall and thin man in his early forties, dressed in Donegal tweeds and plusfours and grandfather was a copy of his son, he was almost seventy years old ,but a little shorter  and looked more slightly pregnant than actually fat, he differentiated himself from Robert by sporting a tweed pork pie hat .  They began to sing as soon as we got on the main road, and the dog joined in too. As we progressed, people began to wave to us, my relations were delighted and waved back enthusiastically. It was not until some brave soul stood in front of the car to stop it, did they realise that our stock of charcoal attached to the gas producer was on fire, and we had to hurriedly find water to extinguish it. The first seventy miles of road to Longford were good enough; we made a steady average fifteen miles per hour arriving at ten thirty. There was a Fair in Longford town, where we breakfasted in the Arms' hotel. Outside the streets were busy with lots of cattle standing on the main road as well as sheep, calves, vegetables, also stands selling boots, mens and womens clothing, tools, carts of hay , a mobile blacksmith and a preacher calling out, that end of the world was neigh, which was quite worrying when you are seven years old. Uncle Robert and grandfather were in the cattle business, so they knew a lot of the cattle dealers who also breakfasted in the hotel. He and grandfather joined in a discussion group on some current problem in the cattle business, which required a lot of lubrication in the form of whisky. In Longford, we were required to phone forward to discover which roads was passable, a process which took more than an hour. It was determined that the road to Longford to Elphin (the northern route) was the best. The roads had changed for the worst, not helped much by the long liquid breakfast, the mettled road gave way to huge ruts and loose stones instead of tarmac, so a tyre had to be changed on average every ten miles and our speed was reduced to ten miles per hour.  We met hardly any other traffic on the journey except for an occasional lorry, to make the journey more interesting for me; grandfather had me count the numbers of slated houses between the towns.  I still remember in the average eight miles between the towns I would count at most about five houses with slated roofs while the remainder were all thatched.  At Frechpark we had our punctures repaired again in a local garage while we ate our lunch. The remainder of the journey required a further six puncture repairs and took nine hours to complete, we had to extinguish another fire in the charcoal by reversing the car into lock mallard near Castlebar. At Mullrany a village about ten miles from Ballycroy, it was nearing dusk when we stopped at Cleggan mountain for a call of nature, grandfather looked at the hill top and pointed to what he thought was an eagle. I now know it was not, but it might very well have been an Osprey which was blown off course while it was migrating to Norway; I have never seen one since in Ireland though. Just another mile or two up the road we came on thousands of tons of cut turf which would be moved to Westport to be brought by train to Dublin to fuel the fires, as coal was still scarce, due to the ending of world war two. It was pitch black night, when we went into the pub, the only building in the village of Ballycroy for liquid refreshments; there we were asked to bring a telegram to Shean. It transpired that it was the same telegram my Uncle had sent the pervious day to warm of our arrival. So our journey had taken fourteen and a half hours and we had to extinguish two fires in the charcoal, and repair more than twelve punctures, now, the same journey will take less than three hours on roads of near to motorway standard.          

            I was carried to bed by Robert, still looking like a black man while grandfather led the way holding our only light source a wee Willie Willie candlestick to show the way to the bedroom. Next morning, I woke up in a big strange house, which I began to explore. It had eight bed rooms covered with timber V board sheeting, a pleasant dinning room a spacious lounge and a country kitchen. I walked down the eight foot wide corridor with a twenty foot high ceiling. On one of the walls, on racks were fourteen foot greenheart salmon fishing rods, with the silk lines pulled out to dry; on the floor beneath them were glass  bowls of water in which gut casts were soaking waiting to be used. Through the lounge window, I saw the rock, and like every other young fella before and since I had to climb its twenty odd feet to take a look from the summit.   I stared out across 22,000 hectares of blanket bog, which has never been disturbed before or since. The expanse was covered in heather and wild multi -coloured grasses  extending into the L shape of the Nephin mountains, divided for as far as the eye could see by the Owenduff  river, I knew we had fishing rights on it  for more than fourteen miles, only two or three dwellings  were visible in the entire area. This was my first view of the legendry adult play ground I had heard so much about.  I would like to share a life time of personal experiences, memories, and associations that I have made, with Shean Lodge, as did my father before me.      

           

           

              

 

                                                       2

            Fourteen years later, while on holidays from college with my white African friend Alex, we went bird shooting to Shean. We had spent the day hunting on the Belmullet peninsula, one fowl January day, with my cousin Roy and his wife and some other friends. Roy wanted to visit an old friends pub which was closing down that day. We were cold and wet so almost everyone in the party was drinking spirits to get warm. We had two drivers of which I was one and the other Roys wife who drank orange juice, while I drank beer.  The singing was good in the pub, as was the company; I disappeared to the toilet and returned to find the bar empty and found our party in the pours of rain sitting on the pavement with their feet in the gutter with a river of water flooding over their legs, as they sang lustily. After a lot of persuasion, the drivers got the singers into the cars for the journey home. We got half way home, when Alex began to imagine we were being charged by a herd of elephants. I stopped the car to calm him down. He opened the car door and ran across the bog as fast he could until he got stuck in a bog hole. We did not release him until he calmed down, which took some time.  I had often heard of people seeing pink elephants before, but this was the first time, I seen anyone being actually chased by them. Later, we discovered the bar was short of sprits, and they thought it was not worthwhile  buying the real stuff when poteen was available at quarter price and, and the licence was already sold. But, Alex and I shared another animal encounter, which is still as vivid to me now, as the day it happened.



An    African adventure   
 Africa. I was here, I had done it. A dream comes true and more or less in the middle of the continent too, in Kenya to be exact. I had only been at work for a week when my work mate and old college pal Alex suggested a fishing trip for Tilarpia. The only thing I knew about these fish was that they had peculiar breading habits, in that they made nests like birds.  This trip was to be my first outside Nairobi. We were going to fish Lake Naivasha, which was about a hundred miles or so from the capital. There were three of us, Alex my own age, twenty two,  and his manservant, fishing and hunting advisor Francis, a Kikuyu tribesman and myself. Alex was short, but whatever, he lacked in stature he made up for in vitality and enthusiasm. Francis was married, unlike us who were wild and single.   
We rose early, about six o'clock, it was still dark. We said cheerio to Rupert, who was the other occupant in the house we shared. Alex was excited by his latest acquisition, which was a second-hand Cadillac that had been driven to Kenya from Katanga in the Belgium Congo. During the late fifties and early sixties, Katanga was a dangerous place. When I studied the car it seemed to be longer and wider than the biggest car I had ever seen in my life. Alex was ecstatic with all the cars virtues, especially the small price he had paid for it. I think it was a silver-grey colour, but it was hard to tell from the dirt. It was covered with a thick layer of red dust called murram and I am sure it hadn¡¯t been cleaned since it left the Congo. What I couldn't miss, even in the gloaming was its special decorative features. Four neat bullet holes in the passenger door, one in the bonnet and another couple in the boot. Francis had already climbed into the back of the car which had only two doors and sat on top of mounds of fishing and camping gear, which had found a permanent home on the back seat of the car.  When I climbed into the vehicle I complained that he hadn't bothered to clean the large blood stain from my seat either.
"For Gods sake you're always complaining about something and where would you get value like this?"He said
"I hope you know where those bullets finished up.", I said doubtfully   
"Well! You're sitting on top of where four went anyway." He said.
We set off on the Rift Valley Road, which is to grand a word for it. It was more a one-and-a-half vehicle track with huge craters, in what had to pass for the highway. Alexs driving methodology was to drive as fast as possible so that the car remained on the top of the ruts .But to be honest, it might have been a good theory but bad in practice for the vehicle and its passengers. It was exciting to drive in the open bush, where there was no sign of poverty and people were happy and waved to us as we passed them by.   
At the top of the spectacular Rift valley where the narrow road descends four thousand feet to the little town of Naivasha, Alex had arranged to borrow a boat from a friend. We got to the pub where we were to be given the details. I can still remember its name, the Bell Inn. The barman, a Scot told us where we would find the boat. It was pulled up on the shore about a mile from the pub. Francis got the outboard motor from the boot, along with all the other equipment and we headed to far side of the lake. Why is the far side, of any lake always the best? No matter. Francis produced spinning rods and we got down to the serious business of fishing. Between the three of us, we caught perhaps a hundred fish, which I think were black in colour and swam vertically and there was something about their dorsal fin, which was poisonous and you had to handle the fish with  care. Little did I know the fish were to be least of my problems! We fished away merrily, well into the afternoon. I noticed what seemed to be some very large fish moving in our general direction along the rocky shore. Unfortunately, I kept my observations to myself. What I had thought were large fish in the water about fifty yards away, turned out to be hippopotamus on a feeding trip. It was not until the twenty foot aluminium boat was pushed right out of the water by two feet or more that I realised my error. To put it mildly, we got a fright and returned to the Bell to relieve the tension. The barman told us we were lucky. A woman had been bitten in half in the same place only the previous week. Anyway, to celebrate our escape, we probably stayed drinking longer than we should¡­ We weren't drunk but we weren't sober either. 
By now it was dark. We drove back up the escarpment which twisted and turned its way the four thousand feet to the top. Alex had always had an obsession with speed and a somewhat careless disregard of danger. God only knows what speed we were going at when it happened. I remember we approached a serious-looking hairpin bend at the same time as a bus approached on the other side of the road. Then our cars lights went out; no doubt as a result of one of the bullets in the bonnet. We shot out into space. I knew it was four thousand feet to the bottom; people have argued with me since that it was only two thousand feet at that point. Does it make any difference? I don¡¯t think so! We turned over two or three times in the air but had only travelled fifty feet or so, when the only tree for miles around stopped us. We were told by the people in the bus later, that we out of the car in seconds. We climbed back up to the road, a little shocked I suppose. Alex never dwelt on things very much. He had soon stopped a passing lorry to organise a ride to the city for Francis. I said to Alex that I thought the African driver was a little the worse for wear with drink. 
"Do you want to get home or not!" He asked?
We heard from Francis later that they had only travelled some two miles before having a head-on crash with another car. Francis then had to hitch yet another ride to get back to Nairobi. 
In the meantime, Alex had me emptying the contents of the Cadillac and carrying everything up the steep slope to the road; no joke in the dark. Francis eventually reached the city and our house. Rupert was awakened and given a situation report. The two of them set out to collect us. Rupert was only half informed as to where we had had the accident. He cross-questioned Francis as he drove to the escarpment. He knew no one goes over the escarpment at that point and lives to talk about it. 
We could see a car descending the escarpment. Rupert had put his foot down a little further on the accelerator than he should have done and lost control of the car, which had a spectacular crash into a milestone. The left-hand side of my car was written off. Rupert gamely continued on to collect us with a car half its original size.
 Francis had been in three major accidents in about three hours. I often wondered if this was a record.  His wife banned him from all further hunting and fishing trips with us. Alex told me later that our names were written in a commemorative book in a wayside chapel built by Italian prisoners of war during the forties at the foot of the escarpment. The tradition was to have your name inscribed in this book, but only if you lived. I hear it is a quite a slim volume.

 

 

                                                                    3

 

                                                                       Hiding down river 

           

             Insomnia is at best energy draining and at worst and has been known to cause suicide. In my youth my solution for insomnia was, to replay in my head a reoccurring dream. If I was lonely or homesick, and living in a remote place of a foreign continent, I would dream of Shean. This allowed me to be brought a little closer to home and sleep.

            The scene never changed, a late May morning on the Owen Duff. It had rained the previous evening and the river is in perfect flood for salmon fishing. In the dark, I drove from Shean, the six miles to Rodgers pool also known as the junction pool because that is where the Tarsaghaun River joins the Owenduff, (which incidentally means black river in Irish). The neck of the pool is about twenty paces long, on the near side a high bank and the far side an expanding bog. Rhododendrons bushes grow along the neck making it difficult for an angler; here the river is only ten feet wide and the water is white and noisy. Careful steps are required, water steeps through the bushes from the river and hidden stones have tripped many an angler. At the end of the path, is a flat red ¨sandstone rock. Even in the half- light a short narrow and delicate footprint is visible. The sole made its mark in the sparse soil and a full print on the rock; I knew she would be here today.    

            I move gingerly onto the rock, and grab some heather to help pull myself the ten feet up the bank to where the pool comes into view. The river is wider now, more than thirty yards and a hundred and fifty yards long. Mist lays six feet deep on the water and land, clumps of white foam pass down the river, indicating the water level is falling, black windows in the water open and close as it rushes for the sea. The opposite bank is composed of shale, gravel and boulders, Scardaun Mountain is just materialising from the darkness in the in the distance, with water gushing from its Corrie lake. Where I stand, the bank behind me rises sharply fifty feet or more and is covered in three feet high ling heather.

            Barbara, I could watch fish all day. She wears a tea- cosy hat, pulled tightly over her ears, wild blond hair escapes from it and strands fall to her shoulders.  Her thin, small body is covered in a closed wax jacket. She faces the river at an angle, to avoid hooking the bank. The double- handed cane rod rises, arcs, rests, arcs again and propels the line in an effortless cast. She sees me and her sunburnt face smiles hello. Meanwhile, on the opposite bank, an expert angler, an Englishman, who I know is busy. He lands his fly on a small flat rock, thirty yards from him. He repeats the performance three times allowing the fly to slip from the stone to the stream. A salmon lunges at his fly, the angler lifts the rod and the fish is hooked.

            The light changes, suddenly its sunrise. To the east, the white clouds on Scardaun have turned red, blasting streams of red light, fan shaped into a dark blue sky. The cascading water from the Corrie streams appears to flow blood red. There is a final call from a cock grouse standing on a turf stump; indicating that morning has broken. Red turns to gold, cold to warmth and the mist suddenly disappears from the scene. A clear blue sky, with and no wind usually equals no fishing.  So, I walk twenty feet higher up the bank for a better view of the battle between the angler and the fish. I remove my jacket, part the heather to find a soft spot to sit on, with my back turned to the hill. I am about sit down, when Barbara arrives to join me; she throws her coat on top of mine to make our grand stand larger.

            We sit side by side, Barbara now bare headed and wearing a sleeveless red shirt, three sizes too small for her, no doubt grabbed in haste from one of her sisters, between the few remaining buttons, I can see dark flesh where the sun has burnt her mid rift. Her hat is removed so her hair falls in ringlets, bleached gold, intertwined randomly with darker inner strands of hair.    

            From the beginning, the Englishman had a fight on his hands. His rod bent double, but the fish had not moved from where it was hooked. He wadded further into the river, so he filled his boots with water, to get closer to the fish. He raised the rod to the vertical and leant on it, so it looked as if it might break. The fish rose slowly from the riverbed, flapped on the surface for a moment and ran. Under my shirt, I feel an ice cold hand against my back. The fishing line cut through the water for fifty yards, the salmon jumped twice, its purple- silver body shimmering in the sun. Long nails dug into my flesh. The angler was tiring, he stumbled out of the water and followed the fish upstream, all the while applying pressure to the line .He managed to shorten the distance between him and the fish; but it was not for long. The salmon ran downstream again; it was almost lost when it threw itself on the shallows of the opposite bank. I could feel blood trickle down my back, as I massaged her ever increasing nipples. The fish logged again and was fastened to the bed of the river.

            The angler wadded again into the stream, his patience paid off, the fish resurfaced, but with its tail first. It was fowl hooked and was eventfully slipped into the anglers' net and lifted out of the stream .It was a small fish of about eight pounds, he removed it from the net and held it aloft, prescribed victory arc; and submerged the fish gently back in the water and rocked it back and forth, until with a flurry and flash of silver it was gone. The angler returned to the bank and removed the water from his boots, stood up, waved cheerio and walked out of sight.    

            I raised my hand in salute to the departing, and conquering sportsman. I can feel her nails dig deeper and deeper in my flesh. I look down to see a smiling face with partly closed eyes closed against the rising sunshine. Her lips are full, parted, and very red and her cheeks flushed. The checked shirt had given up the struggle and was fully open. Her small breasts are dark, while between the cleavages is deliciously white. The pressure from her nails persisted. Overhead larks began to sing, the morning was becoming warm,  and I got to taste the sweet salt from her lips and feel softness of her breasts against me .The canopy of ling heather closed over our heads, here it was dark, warm, safe and time to turn over and maybe just dream my delicious dream all over again.

Mirrorflorress Jan04

            I had odd dream while staying in Shean;  rain woke me up in the night.  In my minds eye; I saw a salmon fly one which I had never seen before. I rushed to the fly tying table and made it then and there.      

                                                

 

                                                       The Dream Fly  

 

                             Materials  

A No 6 Limerick hook (or any preferred size will do)

Golden pheasant Tippet.

Silver ribbing  broad

Lime green seals fur  

Red game hackle  

Badger hackle  

Red Angel hair or any equivalent red flash  

Blue jay  

Jungle cock.  

 

                            Method  

            Tie in golden Tippet tail along with the silver ribbing. Twist the lime green seals fur to form the body, along with the silver ribbing. Mid way on the body, add a   badger wing, mixed with ten percent of red flash. Next, tie in three twists of the red game; dampen down over the badger wing. Add a small beard of blue jay and cheeks of jungle cock. Finnish by whipping and adding a clear and red varnish head.      

            To date, the fly   has more than forty fish to its credit.

 

 

 

 

                          

                                 

 

 

 

 

                                                   4

          We had sold our hotel in 1997, and I was not looking forward to doing nothing for the foreseeable future.  I tried to think of something to fill my time. By chance a former client from the hotel contacted me, just as I was on a visit to Shean and he came along too as a guest.  It transpired he was a director of angling company in the USA and he offered me the opportunity to represent and sell for his company in Ireland which I did for about four years . It was not that I couldn¡¯t sell the wares, but rather that I could not get paid for them , that drove me out of the business. The following story accounts for my first and nearly my last trip anywhere to set up the business¡­                                               

 

 

                                        An American adventure

Oregon. I still think it has nice ring to it even if it nearly killed me. I rented a car at Eugene airport and drove to Glide, a village on the Thunder River or Umpqua River in the local Indian Language. I was to stay at the Steam Boat Inn just a short distance from town. I drove along the narrow gorge, lined with Douglas fir and maple trees. It was a magnificent sunny day and the maples were in full spectacular Autumn colours and broke up the monotony of the dark green of the firs. The River was huge by my standards, two hundred yards wide or more in most places.  It had long pools that would run for over a mile at a time and were connected by what were termed outflows, which were in fact waterfalls. They discharged for hundreds of yards at a time with white foaming water, to join the next pool.

I had barley checked into the hotel when I was meet by a young fly fishing guide whom I had booked earlier, named Tim Caine. He wasted no time and had me fishing a pool near the hotel which had a 50 ft bank to my back, which meant spey  casting, he was a good tutor and I soon mastered the art, I had to get used to the sturdy short American rod and weight forward line, they were both well balanced and capable of casting long distances. The wet fly technique was to cast and allow the line flow down steam until it touched the bank. Then false cast up stream, allow the line to just touch the water; then cast in the desired direction.  A big mend up steam and small roll cast to place the line as close as possible above the fly. It might sound easy to you! It's not. I wanted to give up and go home. Tim gave me great encouragement to fish; the system as we progressed became easier. Tim thought, I was now fishing good enough to catch a fish, but nothing happened.

A final try, at my secret place said Tim;

We drove in his jeep for about 5 minuets. He emerged from the jeep complete with binoculars and Polaroid sunglasses and climbed up the nearest tree.

 Do you see him, he shouted, about 50 ft away?

 I saw the fish eventually. He was10ft further away than I could cast. I practised, then with a well-aimed cast I managed to heave the fly in the general direction of the steelhead, which I could see rise slowly from behind a rock. You give the fish plenty of time to take the fly, to the extent that; I had place one hand placed behind my back. That I can tell you slows you up.

"Strike"was shouted from the top of the tree. Then at the end of my line was my first steelhead, he fought well enough, but no better than our Atlantic salmon.

That night over a communal dinner, at the Steam Boat Inn. Which was taken on long trestle tables with about fifteen people sitting to together. There was only one subject fishing. My host was Jim Van Loam, he was very clear that it takes at least three visits to the river by a stranger before he is due to catch a fish. I think that statement was my downfall, especially as I caught three fish the next day and I suppose I must have lost the run of myself.

 

I had spent two very memorable days with Tim and was considered well enough trained to fish with my new business colleague Ray Traynor.

Ray brought me to a famous poll close to his home on the river. I was given my instructions on how to fish the outflow, they were simple enough. Fish a very short line and extend each the cast by a yard each time until the outflow was covered. Ray said, he would go below the outflow about two hundred yards away. I fished the outflow as instructed, which seemed to take forever. I was about to give up, when I saw a steel show about 10 yards further than I could cast. All I had to do was wade one steep in the water and mount a rock ledge to gain the extra 10 yards. I wore a full neoprene-wadding suit and sturdy spiked wading boots. I steeped into the water less than one foot deep. One foot was in the water and the other in the air, ready to stand on the rock ledge. What I thought was a very safe procedure. My foot in the river was swept away, so that I was now headlong in the water, I held on to the rock that I had attempted climb on. I can still remember its shape, round, smooth with a funny little crack, which the tips of my fingers fitted into. I knew it was hopeless and that I could not stand up, with the force of water, so I let go, somewhat reluctantly. I now felt I was going toa funeral, only it was my own.

In a split second, I had entered the white water of the outflow; I knew the falls had a decent of about forty feet or so, not directly but over distance 100 ft. I was surprised how easily I could breathe, in the white water; I didn¡¯t see any rocks nor have any fear at this stage. Suddenly the white water ceased, I had emerged into a very fast current, now rocks flashed past me at amazing speed, it might sound crazy, but this was a trip of a lifetime.  I was then sucked into a whirlpool, which brought me to bottom of the river. It was very deep I think, because it became very dark and I seemed to be under the water a long time .At last, I was released again into very fast flowing water, in front of where my friend Ray was fishing. I think I shouted something like, help! Before, another whirlpool processed me in a similar way. I was not afraid of water; as I have a lot lifesaving and diving experience, which probably helped me. Anyway, now I was in the middle of this huge river with my neoprene waders full of water.  What happens is, the waders push your legs above your head and thus force your head under the water.  I had to sort this problem very quickly or I knew I would drown. I solved it simply enough by, placing my arms parallel beyond my head. This allowed me to swim in a kind of away, by moving my hands only, very slowly up and down, which I had been thought t to do for lifeguard demonstrations.  I eventually, got close enough to the riverbank for my friend Ray to grab the toe of my boot and pull me out of the river at great risk to himself.

I was amazed the distance I had travelled, more than 500 yards of which two hundred yards were under water. For the record I still had my fishing rod in my hand and no water in my lungs. I was lucky, the river was in flood, therefore, I avoided rocks but with out my friends help I would not have been able to exit the river. I now held the doubtful honour of the only person to have crossed these particular rapids and to have survived. I thought of Merrill Stweep in the Film ¡®River Wild ¡®and how at least she had a boat. 

                                                                              5

                                                                     Worm Fishing

       I 'm a fly fisherman; some say a purist. But secretly I have a passion for worm fishing. I adore, being alone on a warm sunny day on the river bank, with an old rod and a jar of worms.  It gives me more pleasure than any other form of fishing and brings me back to my youth.

One sunny day, I took a short cut from Shean to cross a ford of the slightly flooded river. The river was deep enough to need waders; in one hand I held a brief case containing books, in the other my worming rod. Sandy my retriever had to swim the river to follow me, as we headed for the far side of  Salt Pan, it is a deep semi circular pool with a peninsula of high ground partly bisecting it, and ideal  for worming . To fish, I pulled out thirty feet of line from the reel and lay it on the ground behind me. I attach three or four juicy worms to the hook and cast them up stream. The excitement for me of worm fishing is that split second when a fish decides that it will take the bait.  In fly-fishing the feeling lasts only a microsecond, while with worm fishing the same feeling can last for several minutes.

            I threw the worms up stream to allow them cross several well-known salmon lies then set down the rod, I released plenty of slack line and waited .I removed my overcoat to sit on, it was not long before the line began to chuck. The rod quivered and two inches of line disappeared up the rings. Was it a brown trout, an ell, a sea trout or a salmon? Only time would tell after maybe another two minutes, a further two feet of line was taken. Then nothing, five agonising minutes passed, then without warning three yards of line disappeared into the river. The excitement was over; I knew I had a salmon and I soon had a second. The fish stooped biting but I had my fish now it was time to study. I pushed the fish to the rear of where I sat and the rod to the side of my camp and surrounded myself with books. Larks sang overhead and sandmartins gave a spectacular air show as they dimpled the water to collect flies and drink. I picked up my first book, pushed the wet dog off my coat again and settled down to read Bernard Russells thoughts on the nature of power. My eyes closed and I nodded off to sleep.

            I felt cold, very cold and then bitterly cold. Wild demented devils music filled my ears. A predominant colour of blood red filled my senses, which slowly changed to purple. I opened my eyes slightly; it was turbid, so I could barley see. To my right a rock covered in weeds changed colour from yellow to dark green as they ascended to light, maybe fourteen feet distant. I looked left, I could see Sandy, a large air bubble exited his mouth, followed by a stream of smaller ones. He swam upwards and away from me and left me alone. A felling of sadness overwhelmed me. I could not move because water had filled my waders. Then the music abruptly changed, to beautiful a mystic and peaceful tune lulling me to sleep. I no longer felt cold and the colours changed to lime green. Abruptly the music changed, to a pitched high screech which startled me and forced me to open my eyes, in front of me appeared as a white ladder. It was then simple enough to put a waddered foot on the lowest rung and climb up the ladder on all fours and out of the water.

            Sandy danced for joy, as I pulled myself on the bank; he licked my face as I lay on the ground. I looked out over the pool and watched as my books popped up one by one. Sandy retrieved all ten in a matter of minutes. My relief was great, as the books were borrowed and would cost me a months wages if they were lost. I repacked the soggy books in the brief case, picked up my fish and headed for home. When I reached the ford, Sandy looked at me then the ford and we walked straight past it, preferring to walk the extra half-mile over the foot bridge to Shean. I turned to look back at the scar on the river bank, where my fishing site had vanished: fifty tons or more of turf had fallen into the pool. I thought as I walked home that I might have learnt something about power that even Bertram Russell never knew.

 19
Anyone who has ever visited Shean will have their own story to tell about the experience. In my case this particular one I am about to relate has lasted my entire life. What do I mean? Well, when I was about sixteen years old, our family would spend July in Shean. My sisters had brought a girl friend with them to play with, we had all known each other from birth and I can honestly say I was more interested in fishing than girls. However, something changed on that holiday, and I can still pin point the time and place it happened that I fell in love, although we did not get married until eleven years later.
Bun Mor

The leather settee was pushed close to the turf fire; two old club chairs were set on either side of the settee so they trapped every degree of warmth.  Above the fire was a metal mantelpiece that had so many coats of paint it seemed to have more paint than metal.  Looking down from ten feet above was a red stag.  It was a royal as it had twelve spikes to its antlers.  On the walls were geese, a Brent and a White-front each in its own glass case.  Behind the settee was a specimen sea trout with an inscription plaque and underneath it stood an old glass cupboard.  The room’s wooden storm blinds were pulled closed to keep in the heat, and they rattled in the wind.  A storm was raging outside Shean Lodge.
 There were just the two of them in the big room, an old man and a young  boy.  The man was seated in the middle of the settee.  He had a large glass of whiskey in one hand and a pipe in the other.  He was well into his seventies and he wore a well-used Donegal tweed suit and had sheepskin slippers on his feet.  He was very happy to be in charge of his grandson Jonathan. 
The boy searched for a toy to play with in the cupboard while his grandfather dozed.  He was about ten years old, of thin build with ash blond hair, and he was wearing his pyjamas for bed.  He had pulled most of the contents of the cupboard onto the floor and in the middle of all the accumulated rubbish the boy had found an old photo album.  He had become engrossed in it.  There were pictures of his grandfather on various fishing expeditions and shooting parties at Shean.  He brought the album to his grandfather to look at. 
“Questions you always have questions” said his grandfather.  “Who is this and what’s that?”
Jonathan had found a picture of a young girl.  It had the simple inscription under it ‘Bun Mor ‘57’.  This small photo was the only one to have a page all to itself.
“Who’s that, where was it taken?”  The child asked. 
 The old man took the photo from him and studied it.  Jonathan climbed over a club chair and joined him on the settee. 
His Grandfather said, “I can tell you nearly everything about that photo.  It was taken in July of 1957.  The sun had shone every day for the previous two weeks of our holidays.  I was a boy then of sixteen.  I was disgusted with the weather, not a chance of a fish from the river; even worse, Shean was full of girls, with three of my sister’s girl friends staying in the lodge.  Every day we were brought by my father to the beach at Doagh to swim, spear flat fish or net shrimp.  Life was not so bad for a boy, except for all the girls.  They always managed to get in my way, or complain about me; Just as things were about to become interesting. The girls would cry out at the slightest thing that I did to them and complain to my mother.  One day father decided we would do a hill walk to Bun Mor.  It was quite a long way to go for the younger kids.  We were all given glass bottles of water by mother as well as fruit and a sandwich.  The eight of us, my three sisters, their girl friends and dad and I, set off to Bun Mor.  I was given an old Brownie box camera by mother to take photos on the walk.
Father was the leader of our party.  We left Shean at about noon together with Croom, our golden retriever.  We followed the little stream in front of the Shean that twisted and turned its way up into the scraw under Bun Mor.  The heather was high in those days and Croom was kept busy chasing grouse. The cock grouse would stand on little turf hillocks to keep watch over his pack of ladies. The cock got very agitated by the dog and flew with a pretend broken wing, to draw him away from the young chicks, which could only just fly. This performance tormented poor Croom. Father would stop to look at the bog wild- life on the way. Plants of all sorts had to be examined, such bog-cotton, spider traps and sundew insect-eating plants. That day we even found orchids, deep red ones. In the steam, little trout would rush to get out of our way as we splashed towards the bottom of Bun Mor. In the sky we saw larks, snipe and even a goshawk, which had killed a young grouse chick.
When we reached the bottom of the hill, the younger kids were tired. It would take another half hour to walk to the top of the hill. Four of the girls, Croom and I commenced the walk up the north side of the hill. The heather was long and some of the girls had bare legs so the heather began to scratch them, and they turned back, except for one who wore long pants. We two decided to walk on to the top of Bun Mor with Croom bounding ahead of us, chasing hares and disturbing an occasional wood cock. When we reached the summit a magnificent vista unfolded. We could see to the west over Ballycroy to the sandy beach of Doagh where we had speared the flat fish, beyond the beach  Clare Island stood as a lone sentinel in the glistening Atlantic. Between us and the coast were miles of empty bog land. To the East, Shean looked a mere speck at the end of the gravelled bog road. South, underneath us, turf smoke from the chimneys of half a dozen thatched cottages rose straight to the sky. Each cottage sat on a small square of golden meadow with a turf stack nearby. On the southern horizon, we could see Slieve Mor, the highest mountain in Achill. That day it wore a cap of a tiny cloud. We ate our lunch and lay down to rest in the heather. It was so long that we were covered completely. By accident our hands must have touched. We held each other’s hand. That seemed to last for a long time. Eventually, I sat up, pulled her very close to me and stole my first kiss from any girl. I thought she enjoyed it, but suddenly she got up and ran away from me and down the mountain to find the others in our party. I was left alone with Croom. But larks seemed to sing sweeter, fly higher and the mountain to change colour to a darker shade of purple.”
Jonathan studied the head and shoulders photo of a young sun-tanned girl with bobbed hair and in the background a mountain with a wisp of cloud on its summit. Her eyes were partly closed, and she had a shy smile on her lips. Her head was slightly turned towards the camera, and she wore an expression of either of surprise or jubilation on her face. He looked more closely at the old photo. 
 “That’s my Granny” he said, very slowly. “I know it is, I just do!”
The storm continued to rattle the shutters, the boy sat on the settee quietly thinking but said nothing.     

 

For Inki second  October 2002.

 


 

                    

                                                           7

The following stories are associated with my Uncle Robert, who you met earlier on my first visit to Shean. However, first I have tried my hand at a poem, to explain the fear  adults experienced the day  Roberts daughter Beryl went missing in Shean when she was only two or three years old¡­
          


A house by a river

 A settled river white with foam,
Time for anglers to perform.
Breakfast over, fries consumed,
Each angler to a beat renewed.
By lunch time, each returned
to account for his sojourn.
 
Ten anglers set out and returned,
With various tails, and truth to learn.
Five silvers caught, with sprits high,
the angler¡¯s lunch was not denied.
Wives provided hearty fare.
A mother cried, why is Beryl not here?
The party left the food and wine.
To search, for the baby for a long, long time.
They scarred the river up and down.
They searched and searched but nothing found.
Then someone said ¡®where is Bob¡¯.
The golden Labrador too was lost.
At last in a field of hay,
 Under a cock, fast asleep
Lay child and dog to our relief. 
                                                         


                                                                          8




                                                                         Tea

 Do you like tea, because, my tea-drinking career finished at seven years old.  I was asked by my Aunt, to stay in Shean with my Uncle Robert while she went on holiday.  Robert was more than five times my age and known to his friends as Chi, because of his fondness for tea.  It was April of 1948; we were alone in Shean, except for the housekeeper Mrs Mac.  We ate a late breakfast in the living room.  Outside, the rain fell horizontally on the windows.  Robert asked me if I would get him another pot of tea.
 After my third trip to the kitchen for tea.  Mrs Mac remarked.  "For God¡'s sake, how many cups of tea can a man drink?"  I returned to Robert, to find him, cup in hand waiting for more tea.  "Pour your own first.  You like it weak." He said
 This was my sixth cup and Roberts tenth.  I can't help keeping a total in my head.  Our tea was drunk in silence.  Robert declared the tea as unfit for man or beast.

Robert said he knew where we would get a good cup!  Grab your coat and boots.  "We are off to Newport, to the Hotel.  They do good tea there"  
 As we drove from Shean, I remarked that the river was rising fast and the flood might lock us out by evening.  We were soaked through as we knocked on the hall door of the Hotel.  Finally, the Porter opened it.
  "Sorry to have kept you, Mr Robert, but the Hotel is closed until next week."  "Christ man.  All we want is a bloody cup of tea" 
"Then come in Sir, (indicating to a room with electric light a rare sight then, and a turf fire). Sure of course I 'ill get you the tea". 
 He arrived with a silver tray and the making for tea.  
 "¡'ll be leaving you Mr. Robert"..
 "For Gods sake Peter, will you take easy"?  
 "To be honest I not myself, after what happened to me".  
 "What ails you Peter"  
 "Sir. You know I work here mornings and evenings. I give the afternoon to Mr. Clive on the farm next my cabin. Well, to day morning was a fair- day in Castlebar. We got the filly ready for the fair. Sir, she was beautiful ¡­ Shining. Mr. Clive had his new horse-box and car lined up, ramp down. . You know how excited he can get. God Sir! The rain was coming down in sheets. When the filly was in the box, Mr. Clive shouts from the shelter of the car. "Tackle her up Peter". I close the door. 
 I was late for work in the Hotel."Put the bike in boot Peter says the Boss. We 'ill have you in work in no time" .We arrived in Newport on the horse boxs maiden trip; I hopped out to collect the bike. Mr. Clive shouts to me "You hardly know the trailer was attached to the car". It wasn't! We drove back to the farm, in dread of finding the filly in every ditch. We thanked God and his Holy Mother, for every standing person we met. When we got to the yard, the box was just where we had left it. Mr. Clive shook with anger. "I told you to tackle her up Peter" real mad like! He picks up me bike from the boot and throws on the ground and I have to cycle to work, then you ask me what's the matter".  
 "A Mhuise Peter sure that could happen to a Christian Saint". 
 Robert finished his second cup of tea and Peter departed with the tray. Robert thought this tea was no better than his own. (Ramor 10 cups Robert 16).
 Robert was tenacious in his search for the perfect cup of tea. Next stop will be the Hotel in Westport, fifteen miles away. We walked into the bar and ordered tea. We sat on comfortable club chairs; in front a roaring fire set in a red bricked fireplace with a mantel of bog oak. Above the fire was the telltale mark of a missing picture. The hotel owner Oswald Smith talked to Robert.  
 "Well Oswald that's the nicest cup of tea I had in years. What do you call it"?
  "It's called Red ¨CSi".
  "Where can I buy it"?
  "Level¡s shop in Castlebar. If you go, remember its fair day".
  "Fair or fowl, I 'ill not be without it. " 
  "I must warn you, Lavelle is a little odd! Nevertheless, he still has the best tea in the country.  Ask in any of the pubs for directions to Lavells".  
 "Thanks Oswald . By the way, why is the Stag at bay gone from the wal"l?  
  "Jesus. Don't remind me!  Last week, I was in Dublin with herself. I left the staff in charge of the Hotel. A van pulls up to the hall door. Two men dressed in  official  company dungarees walk to reception. They said ¡®they were here to collect the stag at Bay for cleaning". The staff never questioned them and even helped to load it in the van. They drove off and that's the last we saw of it". 
"Brazen that they were". (Ramor 12 Robert 18)
 The fair was in progress in Castlebar. Horse¡¯s donkeys, sheep, goats, cattle, hens, geese, hay, straw, potatoes and grain, all scattered around the town square. Rivers of manure were trampled by, sellers, buyers, drovers and drunks; who ,sliddered, slipped and skated to find shelter. In here says Robert, who opens a door to a bar. A cloud of yellow cigarette smoke escapes followed by a fowl smell of manure and unwashed bodies. Robert found us a place at the counter and ordered tea, but accepted a whiskey instead and an orange for me. We were sipping away, when the door was burst open by a tinker-man. He looked for a friendly face, saw Robert and made a bee line for him. "Is it yourself Mr Chi"?   
"Don't you know well it is Francis. What will you have "?
 
 A second time, the door was burst open , by two red faced Guards with a weasel faced revenue man in full uniform in tow. They tried to gain entry, but the crowd in the bar moved tightly together to form a solid wall. After a discussion the posse moved away.  
 "They 're after you again Francis. What have you done now"?
 "They are Sir. You know, I have repaired the counties pots and pans for the past fifteen years.    
 "You have that, and only supplied the finest of poteen too".
 "Well Sir , I couldn't keep up with the demand, so the two brothers brought me a  an extra still  from Limerick. They rushed it here in the donkey cart. We set it up in the black mountains. They were on the second run, when we heard the bloody revenue man was in town. The word was out; we would have to move the still in a hurry. We would never have been caught, only for bad luck. The brothers are martyrs to the drink you know. They were sampling the stuff, on the job like. They were lying drunk on the ground next the still, when the guards made the raid. Poor Manny was brought to the station house with the still. But Paddsa ran over the hill and escaped. Sir, all the brothers have in the world is the still. Manny was to be in court to day. Sure, I had to do something to save him. Early this morning, Paddsa and I paid a little visit to the station. As I thought Sir, the police were sampling the evidence and were sleeping on the job. We found the still and emptied the bottles of poteen, sure they had to release Manny for the want of evidence. The guards have been looking for me ever since.
 "Is it true you are in business with the priest Farther Mac, Francis "?
 "it is Mr chi, prayers in the church by day and spirit by night"
"Francis, now that gives a whole new meaning to my favourite hymn ¡­..Oft by the stilly night. By the way, how did the brothers escape with the still "?  
 "They made a break for it Sir, in the donkey cart. The still was given female form when it was made. They put a dress on it, it will pass any casual inspection as woman when it's the in the back of the donkey cart. 
 Lavells store was on a side Street; its windows were boarded against the cattle. Florence Lavelle stood behind his counter.  
 "We would like some tea please".  
  "The tea is here under the stairs". 
  "South American tea? 
 He looked hopefully at Robert, who shakes his head.
"African tea, I have Nandi hills, Longanot, short a lot and Kilimanjaro. 
Lavelle goes behind a pillar and reappears with a black face and wearing an African wig and speaks in a deep voice.  
 "Our brands are extensive , Lion tea, elephant, buffalo and bush ¨C baby. Brook bond, river, creek and stream.  Cut price, half price and no price".
 Robert shakes his head.
"We have, Indian tea, Darjeeling, Assam, Ceylon, Japer, Lahore. Summer tea, winter tea, picked by women, and shredded by men".
Lavelle is now dressed as a Maharaja and sits on howdah and gulps and gasps for air, and has distinct Indian accent.

 "My best brands are , amber, gold ,black ,CA ,RC,CO,FS,BK,ED,MB,MP,JL,PO'D, DO'C and EM¡'.
 Robert shakes his head.
 "In China tea we have, Manchoo, Foocho, Honchoo, Tyfoo and CU".
Lavelle is now dressed as a Mandarin, complete with pigtail. 
 "Best brands Yellow Si, Casp Si, Irish Si, Yank Si, Brit Si, Med Si and You Si. Green Si, Pink Si, Purple Si"and red Si.
 Lavelle looks at Robert 
 "I will  have  Red Si" ?
 "A so, Red Si"!
 He walks a few paces, puts his hand into a tea chest and removes an engraved, red painted box. He hands it to Robert
 Shean looked beautiful under a blue sky; it was a pity the swollen river barred our way. Robert looked at the water and decided to park the car and wade to the house, he had me hold the tea and climb on his shoulders. 
 Robert wadded the hundred yards of shallow water to the house. Before he took a bath he ordered tea. I had delivered our new tea to Mrs Mac who made him a fresh pot of tea as well as thick cuts of freshly made brown bread straight from the AGA. His afternoon tea waited for him in the lounge. When the tea was drunk, Robert remarked on its fine quality and how it was well worth our journey to find it. I returned the empty tray to the kitchen, to find the box of Red Si in the middle of the large pine table unopened. (Ramor 14 Robert 24) 
                                                         



                                                                                          9

 The following story is one that Robert told us as children and he swore that it is true. I have added two of my granduncles to the story to play the part they would have played in the family auctioneering businesses; they both loved their time spent in Shean
                                            The tale of the Honest Drover 
 Alex and Arthur were elderly bachelor brothers.  Alex was a lean, ruddy-faced man with the bowlegs of a horseman.  Arthur was shorter and slightly corpulent.  Alex worked their farm, rearing the cattle and Arthur the auction business, selling them.  The brothers had a peculiar habit of prefacing each sentence they spoke with a verbal tic.  Alex would give a sniff and declared 'begob¡' while Arthur coughed and uttered 'begora'.  It was not surprising that they were known as 'Begoba and Begora'.
Alex rested on a bar stool in the City Arms Hotel in Prussia street, the hossilarry serving the Dublins cattle market.  He had in front of him two enormous plates of T- bone steak and spuds, which rested on the speckled red marble counter, of the bar, in his hand a large glass of whiskey.  The business of the market was not yet finished.  Alex knew that if they were late for lunch, they would get neither seats nor food.
The City of Dublin cattle market was spread out over three acres, bordering Prussia Street and the North circular road near to Phoenix Park.  Today was no ordinary day, as the City fathers had decided that driving cattle through the city was no longer acceptable to the citizens and had decided to close the market down and today was its final day. 
Arthur made for the vacant bar stool next to his brother, for their last market lunch together.  The mood in the bar was sombre and the air thick with smoke from cigarettes, pipes and cigars.  It gave the place a unique aroma.  Everything seemed brown, the floor, walls, ceiling and even the people.
An extra large sniff, 'Begora', it's a sad day Arthur.  What will we do now for business?"
A short cough, "That can wait.  I¡¯m famished.  No breakfast for the men or myself.¡" "Begora, was Mary sick?" "No worse.  Gone Alex,  She's gone.  She left a note."Arthur passed a crumpled paper across the counter.  It read, "Dear Mr Alex & Mr Arthur, " I 'm off to join my own Patsy.  Thank you both for your goodness to Patsy and me too.  Your Obedient Servant, Mary Maguire. The letter had an Australian stamp and return address.  Patsy Fahey, Proprietor, Ottago Station, NewCastle, NSW. Australia. "Mussia Alex, we can only wish them well ,"Begob, it's hard to believe it's more than five years since Patsy is gone." "Did you here what happened?" "I worked it out from bits and pieces, I heard.  Do you remember the day it happened?  I was ill. It was Patsy who was in charge of that drive to Liverpool.  The funny thing was, people could never best Patsy.  Not because he reared at them but because he always won their respect."   
"Begora.  He had no cross word for man nor beast and not a dishonest bone in his body." 
"Well, at five in the morning they drove the cattle to our yard in Prussia Street.  Fifty Angus, black and shining animals.  He then went to the sales where you had bought the other hundred cattle.   'Begora', you said,"they were the best lot we ever sold." A tidy profit they left too!  It took ten drovers to manage the cattle to the boat.  Each man had a bicycle, and a man to every twenty animals.  Two men went  ahead, to warn traffic, three on either side, to protect pedestrians and shop windows, two at the rear to keep the cattle on the move.  The drive took an hour-and-a-half from Prussia Street to the North Wall boat.  You gave Patsy a thousand pounds from the safe to pay the drovers and the expenses for transport and food.  A lot of money in those days.  You could have four good family homes for the same money today. 
Even though it was wet, the drive went well.  At Doyles corner, Patsy had to visit the bank to exchange the Irish money into English notes, a straight swap in those days.  He nodded to the porter at the door and crossed to the customer counting table in front of the shop widow.  He removed a sack he wore over his khaki overall coat to keep the rain off him and threw it beneath the table.  He joined the queue.  His wet clothing smelled of cattle and there was not a lot he could do about it either!  Patsy had swift access to the counter.
The Teller was a certain Russell Grimes, an officious twenty-three year old young man.  Russells parents had influence in the bank and had charted a clear upward path for him.  Russell had just finished serving the Hon Lady Virginia Aungby when Patsy presented himself for service with a bundle of notes in his hand.  He asked for them to be exchanged for the English equivalent.  It was then that the smell hit Russell and he was keen to complete the transaction as quickly as possible.  Patsy returned to the counting table to collect his sack and check his money.  But almost at once, he rejoined the queue.  As was his previous experience he was at the counter very quickly.  He explained that there was an error.  Russell was surprised to see the drover again.  He didn't speak but pointed to a large notice on the wall behind him.  It read, 'The Bank will not accept responsibility for any errors after a client leaves this cash point.  By order
 The Management.'  
 Patsy was a quiet man who avoided trouble.  He returned to the counting table for a third time.  He ran his fingers through his hair.  His face was flushed, he was sweating profusely and he unbuttoned his shirt, which exposed more of his unwashed body.  The Tellers eyes blazed red in anger when the drover reappeared.  Patsy protested, the teller pointed.  Patsy stuttered, "Your last word Sir?"  The Teller pointed again to the sign. 
Patsy saw the steam rising from the cattle as he rejoined the drive at the five lamps.  His younger brother Sean was in charge in his absence.  Sean said when he returned that Patsy was flushed, out of breath and silent.  Patsy paid for the crossing and gave each man his wages.  The men took turns to feed the cattle.  He would normally take his own turn but that evening he said he was unwell.  While the drovers drank their way across the sea, Patsy remained alone.  He neither slept nor drank that night.  Sean thought the poor man might expire.
Early next morning the drovers fed the cattle before they landed.  Patsy came to Sean to explain that he was ill and passed the balance of the one thousand pounds, along with the receipts to his brother.  He gave instructions that these should be given to Mr Alex in person.  He would find a doctor.  Sean took the money and promised to follow orders.   
Meantime, back in the bank, Russell was pleased with his day.  In particular how the Hon Lady Virginia Aungby had complimented him on his service.  Closing time was three-thirty and then time to balance the books.  Russell, a fussy little man, was never a halfpenny astray in his work, so when he was short by £9000, he simply could not believe it.  The Manager requested the days closing balance from each Teller.  Russell panicked and said he would be working late on share transfers for the Hon Lady Aungby and would have the balance in the morning.  The Manager accepted the explanation, although it was against the rules and besides, Russell was such a charming and reliable a boy.  The midnight lights burned brightly.  Russell could not find the missing funds.  The Manager was very understanding; however he quoted the bank rule.  A clerk must repay the bank in full.  He pointed out, at £20 pounds per week, repaying all his wages; he would easily repay the bank over nine years. 
Patsy left the boat long after the cattle had departed.  He walked slowly to the deep-water section of the port.  He was seen talking to a sailor and then boarding a ship to make his first trans-world crossing to Australia.
Naturally the police were called to investigate the banks loss.  Russell, a prime suspect, had his house searched by the police to the horror of his parents.  Nothing was found.  It was not until a policeman questioned the porter that an explanation emerged.  He said that he had watched the drover go three times to the tellers booth and return to the counting table crestfallen.  He watched as the drover left with a determined look on his face. "So what happened?¡¯ Asked the policeman.  "Oh that's simple enough.  It's all English tenners that are missing.  The drover was given a ten pound note in error  for each one Irish pound tendered by Patsy.
"Begob! So that's what happened." "Yes.  Twice Patsy tried to return the cash and twice, he was insulted.  According to the Porter."
"So Mary is gone from you too."
"She is. God bless them both, honest young people and the bloody bank can well afford the loss." 
"And, what of the Clerk, what happened to him?"
"Him  Begob!  I heard he is in charge of the regional office now."  


                                                                                                  9 

 After Christmas Derik and I would go shooting to Shean. At that time the young people who had emigrated from Achill to England would be still at home and on holiday which added an extra buzz to the Island. We would go dancing in a fifty mile radius of Shean, including Dukanella parish hall on Achill Island. We would drink in the pub near the hall, with the rest of the lads until well after twelve o'clock.  We paid for our tickets and entered the rickety wooden doors of the corrugated roofed building where the Parish Priest was on stage making an announcement. "The next dance will be a snake dance" He said. I had just returned from some exotic foreign places and had witnessed several snake dances, but was surprised to be about to see one in Achill. He went on..." I know every last one of you here, and all ye lads that snaked in through the ladies toilet window can bloody well snake back out again." So began the next story.                                                
            

 

                         Father Morrisons Hat
 
The elephant grass swayed three feet above their heads as they walked through the scraw bog.   A scraw is an overgrown lake covered with thick weed and can just about support a person walking on it. They were shooting snipe. Thousands of snipe left cover as they made their way across the bog. Although the birds blackened the sky, and flew away in clouds not a shot was fired by the two boys. Each time they put their guns to their shoulders; they would sink into the bog and could not fire.  At the far end of the bog, about three hundred yards away, shots began to ring out and continued until the two exhausted boys and their dogs reached the road. In the middle of the road was an elderly, red faced man with a huge nose attached to his face. Two hands like shovels fell on either side of his old and tattered shooting jacket and in the hands rested an ancient shot gun.  His face had a smile on it that could easily have been designed by an angel.
¡°Well thank ye boys, thank ye. "Ye gave me the best shooting I ever had for snipe in me entire life." he said. "Look, more than a twenty birds collected." There in the middle of the road were the birds guarded by a very proud chocolate Labrador. ¡°Who are ye?  But wait, I recognise ye all right. You're from the Lodge aren't ye. By the way I¡¯m Father Morrison the PP.¡"he said. The boys introduced themselves to him.
"My God will we ever see the Lodge. 
I 'm famished, frozen and wet."said Derick.  "There it is.", said Ramor, "about a mile away."  The lodge stood like a big grey shadow in the middle of a massive bog of several thousand acres. Rhododendrons surrounded the house, twenty feet high in places. The two boys made their way quickly down a stream that lead to the main river, carrying the game they had shot and controlling the exhausted gun dogs as best they could. They reached the lodge and were greeted by the house- keeper Mrs Mc. 
"Well Boys, you're back and it's near dark too. I thought I 'd have to send a search party to look for you. Mr Derik", said Mrs Mc in a confidential way. "Don't you know that today is a fast day?" Derik was a devout catholic, while Ramor was a Protestant. In the 1960s fasting was a serious business, policed heavily by the legion of Mary, of which Mrs Mc was a leading light. "You 'ill be having the eggs, Mister Derik."  She said with a malicious smile.
"Now here's a test for your religion." said Ramor jeering his friend. He could smell the beef from the kitchen? Derik looked Ramor, straight in the eye.
"will too." he said to Mrs Mc. "The eggs will be fine with me."
Soon afterwards two eggs were brought into the dinning room by Mrs Mc. The famished Derik laid into them as if his very life depended on them. Mrs Mc arrived with a big roast of beef and vegetables and placed them on the sideboard in the dinning room. "By the way boys, you're both expected to attend mass to morrow. Fr. Morrison has sent a messenger to say that you have been invited to shoot the Anna Island white-fronts after mass."
Ramor licked his lips in anticipation of the roast of beef, which he had cut thick slices from and set on his plate.
"Another test of religion." he jibed at Derik, who had just about finished his eggs. Ramor cut the meat and commenced chewing. He got up from his chair and ran for the bathroom. The meat was not just off, it was putrid and he had to get rid of it fast. When he returned, he asked Mrs Mc, what else there was in the kitchen.
"Nothing.", was the reply and Derik had just finished off the eggs.
 The boys set off to Mass the following morning. They drove up the unmade road to the village. When they reached the church it was a hive of activity with dozens of donkey carts and bicycles parked outside it. They were ushered to the front under the instructions of the priest. Fr. Morrison arrived and explained to the congregation that from today the service would not be in the Latin, but in English for the first time. Things did not go so well. The only one who knew the responses in English was the Protestant Ramor. After the service they all met up in the Presbytery.
 Fr. Morrison sat in a big leather club chair in front of a roaring fire with a glass of punch in his hand.
"Welcome boys, welcome. My god Ramor without ye in the church this morning to give me the responses I would have been talking to myself and God, and ye a Protestant too!  Ye 'ill be having a glass boys, to keep out the cold."
The kettle was sitting by the fireside with steam coming from it and he produced the two punches with a well-practised hand. The proffered punches were accepted by the young inexperienced drinkers.
"It¡'s okay boys. Think of it as medicine. he said. "Oh, why did I ask ye to come to Anna anyway? Sure the place has my heart scalded this last four years but at least I know it better than any other mainlander does nowadays!¡±
"What caused all your grief, Father?", said the boys.
"Have ye heard of Communo Papa?"
"What's that?", they said in unison?
"It's a special rite of a priest to deal directly with the Pope. Ye can understand in my lowly position in this church, surrounded by only snipe bogs, it's unusual to get to deal with the boss himself."
"What has this got to do with Anna", said the youngsters downing their punch. The Priest was fast on the job of replacing all three glasses.
"Sit back there boys and i 'ill tell ye all about it. The Island had only the two families living on it. Two brothers were married to two sisters. The husband of one family died and the wife of the other, all in two months. I buried them both on the Island, a terrible business! Not long afterwards the two remaining partners came to me to get married. As ye probably know, that¡¯s against the cannon law. A brother cannot marry his brothers wife. I wrote to the bishop, but a letter came back real fast, which gave me flea in me ear, I can tell ye. All went quiet for about nine months, until the first child was born. The couple were now desperate to get married. I went to see the Bishop. I knew writing wouldn¡¯t do the job. The Bishop said you must enact Commune Papa.  I tell ye no word of a lie. I 'd to put on me thinking hat, for every letter had to be in the Latin and me out of the seminary this last forty years too.  Sure, me dictionary was near worn out with letters toing and froing, never mind me poor right hand. Two more children and a ton of paper later, I got their special permission. Three years it took, to get them married. What a day. People from every corner of the parish turned out to congratulate the couple. I married them and christened all three children all on the same day. That's the reason I 'm always a bit nervous about the Island. Sup up lads, its time we was off. Michael will be waiting for us with the currach at Annacloy .
They got to the little cove about a mile from the island where Michael Dorgan kept his currach.
"You're late.", he said to the priest.
"Blame it on these young fellas.", said Father Morrison.
"Are they coming as well?"
"Didn't I promise them a shot at the geese, Michael.""Can they shoot?"
"That they can and they're tough too. I saw them walk the Tamaracara scraw with me own eyes."
"That do will do me.", he said.
"Well get in the boat, we 're late already before we start."
A very fast current flows between the point of Annacloy and Anna Island. The currach, now low in the water with the four men, Michael hard the oars, heading for the Island. Michael had a cap pulled low over his eyes and his coat opened to let off some of his perspiration. He over-did it, though. The timber toll pin which held the oar snapped.
"Okay.", said Farther Morrison. "Where's the spare pin?" 
"What spare?", said Michael, all confused as the currach swept past the Island.
"Next stop America." said Ramor.
"And I think you had better enact the Encommuno Dio.", said Derik to the anxious priest.
 Michael was well used to life's little crises, after all he had fourteen children, and could be relied upon to fix things eventually. "Hand me up me gun."The priest picked up the rustiest single barrel shotgun he ever seen. Michael grunted his thank you and inserted it to replace the broken toll pin. He turned the boat around just in time to see the white-front geese, circle the island for a second time which singled that we had missed our chance  on to shoot the Anna island white fronts.

                                                                                            10
                                                                                        Turkeys
                                    
It was morning of Christmas week 1957. I ate my breakfast with mother and my three sisters; father arrived home from work to join us for our meal. In his hand, he carried the morning mail, Christmas cards, a newspaper and a letter from Frank. It was his custom that he would read Franks letters to us when they arrived. Frank lived in his cottage near Shean, he acted as caretaker and ghillie to our family.  Frank was also: - repairman, stonemason, carpenter, plumber, Mechanic, confident, valet, chauffeur, naturalist, and manufacturer and purveyor of the finest poteen. He knew, what¡¯s what, who¡¯s who, who¡¯s what and what's when. He was also a collaborator and co-conspirator in many of my father¡¯s little schemes. Father opened the envelope, and began to read to us the two closely written pages in Indian ink, with Frank¡¯s characteristic hand. He read slowly with great empathy, it began¡­

Shean Lodge,
Ballcroy,
Westport,
Co Mayo.
15/12/57

   Dear Master,
I had the luck to meet the postman on the street, and gave him this letter to him to post. I hope this letter will find you and the family in good health, and prepared for Christmas. I trust you arrived home safely from your visit here. We have the long nights upon us now; at least the few bottles I slipped in the back of the car will help to brighten them up for you. Sir, about the painting you asked me to do. I was working in the kitchen like you said, to tell the truth, I am lucky to be alive. I was alone, with a lightning storm outside and only the oil lamp for light. I had my hand on the ladder and was about to mount it. When a flash of light came out of the AGA cooker, it blew out the lamp, I was lifted up to ceiling, so that I was covered with the wet paint I had just applied. I was held up there with all the spiders and their webs; I could even see the patches on the ceiling where I had failed to paint. I don't know how long I was pressed to the ceiling. It was if the little people had turned against me. As you know Sir, I had nothing but the height of respect for them. I was near dead from the fall and the fright, so I won't be painting for a spell now Sir. (I  have to wear my red flannel vest and pants to try to cure the awful pains that have got into my bones).
I suppose by now you have heard about the geese. Well, Master William went against my advice. He set off with that old fool Cafficky to shoot Fahy Lake. The geese streamed over the young masters head. He bagged a dozen, along with six mallard (he is a very good shot now you know). He was delighted with himself, until the following morning, when Kane went to feed his geese and them all promised in the neighbours houses for the Christmas. Mister William had to pay Kane thirty pounds for the geese plus fifteen for his trouble and had to even give him the bloody bird¡¯s birds back too.   
Master, can you help me? I fear an American wake for my Elizabeth. For the past year, every week she has received a letter from our Paddy in New York. She guards her letters very tightly, I met the post man on the road the other day and took our mail from him. Among the post was a letter for Elizabeth. I went directly to the Lodge and boiled the kettle and steamed it open. It was as I thought, she is planning to go and live with Pat- I have lost my dear son for America, and I can¡¯t bear to loose my beautiful daughter too. Master please help me.
                 Your obedient servant,
                                                 Frank   
PS. Sir, I 'ill try my best to get back at the painting soon.   
Father made no comment, but was clearly upset by his friends predicament and determined to help him, if he could, but how? Over the sitting room fireplace hangs a picture of a turkey shoot set in New England in the seventieth century, it inspired father to action. He reasoned, if he supplied Elizabeth with turkey chicks to rear, and she had an extra income, it would allow her a choice to go away or to stay at home. He did his sums and he would buy the chicks and food for them and could be repaid when the birds came to market. It would allow Elizabeth a year to think what she should do and yield more than enough money for her do what she wanted. Father departed for Mayo in April 1958 by car and trailer packed with 100 turkey chicks, meal and a book on turkey rearing. The birds were reared by Elizabeth, but not without difficulties from foxes, stray dogs and disease. Nevertheless, 56 birds were ready for the Christmas market of 1958. They were judged to be in excellent condition when they arrived in Dublin to be sold.
There were ten days before Christmas, and I had returned home from boarding school. I held my first driving license for six months then, but had little driving practice. When invited by father to deliver the turkeys to Market, I jumped at the opportunity to drive. I washed and polished the car so that it gleamed. I watered the turkeys, but could not feed them as they had to be starved for three days before slaughter. I felt sorry for the birds as they sat in the trailer. Father had an affinity with all animals and was always kind to them. He had made a slatted top for the trailer, so although it contained their bodies it allowed their heads to pass through the slats to freedom. The trailer looked like a submarine with 56 red toped periscopes. Next morning I arose at 4.30 AM to drive father to work and the turkeys to market. I passed by the five lamps and entered Fairview road on the way to Merchants warehousing, where the birds were to be sold. I saw, a notice placed on the road, turkey Queue...It was at least a quarter a mile from the factory. The Queue, consisted of barrows with metal wheels, hand carts, motor vans, flat tops, tippers and various types of private cars, horse drawn vehicles, coal carts, farm carts and horse drawn vans for milk, bread and laundry, there was a scattering of bicycles with a single turkey strapped to its back carrier. I joined the Queue, behind a blue van with rear opening doors. We moved at a snails pace, so the driver of the van had time to come and have a chat with me. He was a tall and, muscular man, sallow in complexion   and had an angular chiseled face. He smoked a corn cob pipe and wore a pork pie hat. His facial expression was that of an amiable cow, his clothes looked as if were pored into them and he had forgotten to stay stop. His name was Liam and he lived in Garristown, a small village to the north of Dublin. He thought me somewhat out of place with my gleaming Mercedes- Benz car an immaculately clean trailer with the all seeing turkeys in a sea of vechular detritus. Dawn broke and the road became busy with city commuters and traders. In front of me the blue van moved closer the factory gates, which opened to allow Liam¡¯s van enter the factory yard. I followed him quickly, before the gates could close again. I was stooped between the gates. The gateman rushed in my direction and informed me that the plucking -machine had broken-down and the company would only accept oven ready turkeys, but they would pay a shilling a pound for plucking, if they were delivered in the yard by 9 am next day 
 I not absolutely certain what happened next, except that I watched Liams expression change from that an amiable cow to a raging bull. He flung the rear doors of his van open. A hundred live beautiful black turkeys took to the air as one, it looked as if someone had broken a pillow and shaken it in a windy coal mine. Somewhere in the middle of this black cloud were the turkeys, some flew into the factory pursued by the factory staff, others ran across the yard, through an open door and into the company offices, producing a great volume of noise from the resident staff, others ran up the bonnet of the Mercedes and over its roof on to the trailer, watched by my bemused birds and thus to the road. The gateman made valiant efforts to slow their progress, but to no avail. I watched Liam helpless with laughter in front of me, while behind me on the road, a bus driver had stooped his bus and jumped out of his cab to capture an escaping turkies, and his passengers got the idea and joined in the chase. Traffic was brought to a halt as shopkeepers, barbers, postmen, chimney sweeps, policemen and even an elderly clerk joined the chase for a fee Christmas dinner. I returned home with my cargo intact, to report that slaughter would have to be performed on our 56 unfortunate turkeys.
 Father knew better than ask mother to help in any of his save 'the world ideas'. That left me, my sisters plus the stalwart Mrs. Buckley, our housekeeper to do the work. Mrs. Buckley was a strong, good-looking Tipperary woman, who had been widowed, early in her life. When it came to organisation, she could perform the most amazing feats. She was viewed in awe by my mother, who thought of her, as a cross between a saint and Charles Atlas; as she handled my fathers latest whim. But when confronted with 56 large turkeys to be made oven ready, she was not pleased. She got us kids down to work. She placed a broom handle between two stout chairs and secured it at either end. A turkeys neck was placed on the upper part of the brush handle its body one side of it and it's head-on the other. One person pulled the body down ward and the other pulled the head until the neck broke. It sounds barbaric, but the system worked well, it still took one hour for two people to deal with a single bird. By 10 PM and with the help of father only 26 turkeys were ready for tomorrow¡s market.
I rejoined the Queue. at eight am. I thought that progress would faster than the previous day, but I was wrong. Each bird had to be inspected separately, graded, weighed and paid for in cash. So that the motley collection of turkey vendors were stuck with each others company again. Liam sought me out for another chat. He said that he was paid in full for all his birds from the previous day, even though 50 of them escaped. He mumbled something about company negligence, and in the same breath" didnt they make a fine dinner. He had to work through the night to have the birds ready for the days market. He was exhausted, hungry and thirsty.   
"Do you take a drink "he asked   
"No "
Will you move my wagon up the line for me, if I go for some refreshment in the pub?" "Of course, no problem."
If the line moved at a snails pace the day before, to day the snail must have been injured. As I moved Liams van forward, other drivers asked, If I would to the same for them. There must have been a dozen pubs to be passed on the way to the factory. It seemed the only one who did not suffer from severe thirst was myself. I moved the entire Queue, forward single-handed, the hand ¨carts, horses, tractors, vans and bicycles. When the factory gate opened, I would drive or push the vehicle into the yard and then go to find the owner. The drivers had gone from sober to drunk and then back to sober. When they sold their consignment, they insisted on celebrating the sale. Each driver gave me a tip for my efforts on their behalf and I returned home with £3 pounds in my pocket .We had sold our birds at an excellent price.   
At home I rejoined the killing and plucking party for the remaining 20 birds, we did not finished the work until 2 am. Next day, the Queue was somewhat shorter, but. I noticed that the gate- keeper had left his post and walked in my direction to the middle of the Que. he stopped at a van in front of me and spoke to the driver. The news he brought was devastating, only 500 more birds were to be accepted by the company. He estimated from my position in the Queue, our birds would not be bought. All our effort wasted, never mind poor Elizabeth. I watched for the gate- man to return and as he approached me, I jumped out of the car to speak to him. I offered him a deal, he could have my £ 3 in my pocket, if he would spread the word, to drivers in front of me, that Byrnes, Finlaters and Haffners were offering an shilling a pound extra for any birds with them before ten am. I watched as drivers departed the Queue hastily ,to make their way to the grocers, fish merchants and butchers of the city centre. I just made it into the yard as a result of my ruse; my consignment was accepted at the same price as the previous day. I paid the gate-man his dues, exhausted, but happy I returned home. 


                                                       11
I include the next story as it was how I remember a Craigie Christmas at more or less as the turkey story unfolded.

                                                                    One hundred per cent Christmas 

 If Christmas began and finished for you on the same day, you are of a certain age; in 1955 I was fourteen, it began at five A.M. by being shaken awake by Father to go to work, it was an icy morning, I dressed and scampered downstairs to the warmth of the AGA cooker, two cups of tea and heavily buttered slices of brown bread awaited. He started his car, I poured kettles of hot water on the screen and we slithered down violet hill and up Cardiff bridge road to collect Henry our blacksmith, then drove to my familys Dairy. Henry had fifty delivery horses to shoe with one thousand four hundred frost nails. I helped lead each horse to the Smith while deliverymen waited impatiently. By seven ,he was finished,  and  I found  Father in a bad temper , because  Joe Durkin  the man who prepared the machines for work  was  an hour late  . He said , he  cycled past our house at seven o'clock and encountered a six foot wide river of rats coming  out our gate which crossed  the road and  into Glassnevin  cemetery, he waited for a half hour for them to go by, but gave up and came to work  by another route.

          At eight , we  breakfasted and I  feed  the animals  at home,  first the  ponies who were spooked when I cleaned, feed them , as was the dog . But when I opened the hen house door, the ground literality moved with Rats. I got my shot gun and in one shot killed thirty rats. I heard next day, the open graves in the cemetery were full to the top with rats and the grave- diggers had to fill them in and dug new graves.

          At nine, we returned to the Dairy and Father visited each worker. He wished them season¡¯s greetings, often they were third generation employees who worked with my family. Then he delivered Christmas hampers to the company widows and drank whiskey and I drove him home. At eleven thirty, it was time for church with my Sisters and Mother, she sang in the choir, so we had to stop Father snoring too much during the service. Twelve thirty, back to the dairy, only a matter of tidying up as most of the staff had gone home, but a milk delivery van was missing, and we had to go and look for it. 

"The bloody horse will have more intelligence than the man, said my Father ", with no traffic on the road it will think its Sunday, so we drove to the church on that route, there was the horse and van, but no driver. I drove it home, unloaded the van and fed the horse; Father arrived later with a drunk delivery man who he left home. It was now four o'clock. 

          Uncle Robert( who you know well now) and his  family came for children¡¯s Christmas dinner , we gorged ourselves , exchanged presents and played games .At  five thirty I checked the weather  forecast ¡­ severe frost and  drove back for  Henry to  install  more frost  nails on the unfortunate horses.  Eight o'clock, after a bath, it was off for Christmas dinner at St Helena my Grandparents house, this was to be my first adult Christmas with eleven uncles and eleven aunts. The open front gate lead to a large double fronted and two storied house, which had a three foot red candle burning in the dinning room window.  Inside the ladies wore long silk dresses of bright colours and of different designs, the men wore evening dress hunting coats of red and green. Presents were exchanged, punch was drunk; each man took a partner, linked arms and walked to the dinning room singing the doxology.

          Praise God, from whom all blessing flow;

          Praise him, all creatures here below;

          Praise him above ye heavenly host 

          Praise Father, Son and Holy Ghost 

The table centre piece was a mirror covered in  sphagnum moss, on top of it was a piece  bog oak, inset with  flickering  candles surrounded by  berried holly.  We ate and drank until ten ¡®clock, when I was sent to check that the dairy was safe, a walk of a half mile, back the avenue of  a double line of  beach and oak, for light a full moon, for company the chatter of rooks and a screech from a barn owl,  it was freezing cold . I  checked the stables for a cast horse, as  the heat rushed out and a  soft moon light fell through the sky lights, all the horses seemed to be  kneeling, as if in prayer and took no notice of me , then  to the dairy,  the quiet  machinery, waiting for tomorrows work and  back St Helena. It was almost mid night now. I was tired, cold, and got to sit in a leather chair in front a log fire. I  thought, how well I knew this place, its people and fell asleep in the knowledge, of how I much I loved them and was loved in return . 

 

 

 

 

 27/10/0



 

                                                                                                  12

When I sit in the lounge in Shean by myself on a winter night, with a high turf fire and listening to rain pelting on the windows with the wind attempting to make a sail of the curtains, I can often feel my ancestor's presence. In particular my Uncles Edward and Victor who seem very close to me in this room because of the wall panelling which they fitted.  While I got on exceptionally well with Edward, I had an extremely odd relationship with Victor. I never really understood why until after his death, when old memories came streaming back...

 

Victor

 

Victor Craigie, at home peaceably aged 84 years.

Deeply regretted by his nieces, nephews and

many friends.   Finglas parish church 11.30

2nd September 2001.

 

Victor was my bachelor uncle, my fathers brother.  There was always something about him that I distrusted, perhaps even disliked.  I had only a hazy, childhood image of him and I knew I would have to attend his funeral or answer to my father when my time came to join them all. 

As I read the death notice a second time, past images became sharper.  Like the time when I was taken by Victor to Dublin Zoo, where he was a problem-solving committee member.  Apparently some newly arrived cheetah were not thriving.  Victor diagnosed the problem as lack of human companionship in the quarantine quarters. The cheetah came from a family in Kenya and missed children to play with them.  No problem for Victor.  He opened the cage and popped me in with the animals, where I stayed for several hours and had great fun too.  On returning home my mother asked me how I got on.

¡°You what!¡± she said.  Playing with wild animals!  That Victor again I didn't see Victor for quite a while.

Another time he decided he would paint the local church.  A great job, except for all the paint on the floor tiles.  He asked me help clear up the mess.  Victor came up with the bright idea to use petrol to remove the paint, which worked fairly well, but to add a bit more speed; he set it alight, which was okay except I was standing in the middle of the fire.  Victor returned me to my mother with no eyelashes and black clothes.  "That Victor," said my mother.  "I think he is out to get you killed!"

 Victor had  eleven brothers and sisters, all steps and stairs.  I sometimes stayed at my Grannys house and often watched as Victor and his siblings would prepare for a nights partying.  Victor would lay out his entire wardrobe on his bed but would be unable to decide on an outfit.  He would then stay home, rather than make a decision. After I was returned home, my mother would say, "You mean that he couldn't even decide what to wear to a party?  Poor Victor, she said, some day indecision will cost him dearly."

          The church was packed to overflowing, with people paying their last respects.  I sat in the front, so near, that I could have touched his coffin.  I looked across to the choir stall where he used to sit, under the statue of a beautiful sculptured angel.  I knew the church well; it was where Victor had attempted to incinerate me.  The service droned on, and the memories flooded back.  The priests voice had a hypnotic effect on me and time stood still.  My right arm began to ache, just as when my Granny held it when I was four years old.  My arm was held up so that my legs were barely on the ground.  The pain was excruciating.  Granny knew I was precocious and prone to escape at any opportunity and her only hope of containment was a secure grip. 

In my mind I had had returned to 1944, the world war still in progress, Granny and I watched a parade of army and Red Cross volunteers pass us by.  Victor was a member of the Red Cross as were my aunts, while my other uncles were members of the army reserve.  The parade  had passed Burns shop on Finglas road and as I said, I was an accomplished escape artist and I broke loose from my Granny and ran at full speed towards the marching Victor.  I was just about to be mowed down by the army, when I was lifted from behind by slender arms.  They belonged to a young lady who ran back into the crowd and returned me to Granny, who made certain that I now had two sore arms.  My saviour spoke with a strange kind of accent and seemed to know Granny slightly.  She was Rossieen, the English niece of the two spinster Miss Durhams. She had been sent from London by her parents to Ireland to avoid Hitlers V2 rockets.

          Later at Grannys house, as my uncles and aunts returned from the parade, they discovered that I had pulled a glove from my rescuers hand and had put it into my pocket.  Victor questioned me closely about my rescuer.  Who was she?  Where had she come from? In those days everyone knew one another in Finglas.  All the family questioned me about the newcomer in the village.  I was once again the centre of attention.  Victor seemed to be the most interested in who the lady might be and volunteered to return the missing glovs and to have me apologise for my bad behaviour.  We walked the mile to Finglas village and then the half-mile to the Durhams house.  I remember that I was very tired when we saw it.  It was big, with three stories over a basement.  It had bay and bow windows on either side of a hall door and steps leading to it and all covered with emerging Virginia creeper.  An unkempt garden with two lines of confers on either side of a grassy avenue led up to the front door.  Victor knocked and was answered by the older of the two Miss Durhams.  She led the way to a large sitting-room where the family were having tea.  Victor made me stand me in the centre of the room, right in front of the lady who had rescued me earlier.  When I look back now, I thought she resembled the statue of the angel in the church.  I began to cry but no words came out.  She picked me up for the second time that day.  Now I could look into her clear blue eyes and her freckled face which was so white that it could never have seen the sun.  Her glistening black hair had the scent of lavender.  ¡°Now stop that crying please.  That was an was an exciting morning, she said with a laugh.  "but you must promise me not run away again from your Granny."  And she put me down.

Things must happened over afternoon tea, because Victor, Rossieen and I went walking.  It was a Sunday afternoon and we walked to Moffats castle which was about a mile away and stood on a hill overlooking the river Tolka.  The castle was set in woods where violets and other wild flowers grew in profusion.  "This is my favourite  place in all the world,"said Victor.  "I think that it might become mine too," said Rossieen.

          Every Sunday from then on Victor would bring me with him to collect Rossieen and we would all walk to Moffats castle.  I was always sent to collect wild flowers for my Granny on the far side of the woods while Victor and Rossieen stayed together on the sunny side. Sometimes I worked really fast and came back to find them both in tears but I could never understand why and they never said.

          So life progressed, Sunday by Sunday until one day we didn't go for our walk, nor the next Sunday.  I was a brat, no doubt and created a fuss.  I wanted my walk with Rossieen and that was that!  Victor, my uncle and my best friend, suddenly beat me with without mercy.  Now at his funeral I was reliving the pain and astonishment at what he had done, from which I never recovered.

          It had taken forty years for me to recall what had happened and now with my hand touching his coffin, I understood for the first time how much they had loved each other.  It was hopeless of course;  She being catholic and he a Protestant.  He never did marry but loved children, except me, or that was what I thought.  Only now did I realise that I was his last link with his lost love, and each time he saw me it reminded him of Rossieen.

A postscript, I was on holiday in Mexico seven years after Victors funeral and I happened to meet a lady , who turned out to be Rossieens niece and learnt that Rossieen too had never married ether and was still alive at that time.

 

                                                                                        13

 

Next, I combine two completely separate stories with a common theme of shooting, both are set in Belmullet, as I have already said is about a half hours drive from Shean and was loved by generations of sportsmen. Sadly, most of the birds are gone now due to the loss of habitat in Belmullet and in the birds' mother countries.

The shooting lesson

All that remains intact of the house and garden now are the specimen fruit trees, cherry, apple and pear. An observer would find it hard to know that they were the coincidence of a bucket, bottle and a rifle. But to explain, my Grandfather, his two brothers and seven sons were shooting near. They had been snipe shooting in the bogs there. The weather was warm, so the party stooped at a remote bog lake for a swim. The younger members enjoyed the sport of target shooting with a.22 rifle, which they shoot at a bottle that they had thrown on the lake.

On the other side of the lake in a field milking her cow was a widow woman. She thought she heard bees in the air. Her cow grew uneasy and kicked over the precious bucket of milk. A ricocheted spent bullet struck her on the back of her neck. She sent a message to local Garda station with the news that she had been shot. In fact, all she received was a slight burn, but the story lost nothing in the telling. Grandfather was first to sense something was amiss; he heard the car engines and bells ringing on the bog road. He saw the silver on the buttons glisten of the police coats as they advanced towards the shooting party.

They were all arrested and taken to the police station; the charge attempted murder. A special court was convened that night. A sergeant read the charges and the judge asked for explanations. Grandfather whispered his excuses to the Judge. What he said, no one can say for sure. However, it went something like this. "Your honour is a family man. You understand the problem of raising seven sons. I have thought them gun safety and a love all things in nature, since they were born. I even bring them to isolated places to keep them out of trouble. This time I failed. I am sorry for the widow woman. I suggest to the court that I will make amends, by making a garden for the lady and set fruit threes for her to harvest in the future." So that is how our family was sentenced by the judge. They agreed to prepare a garden of fruit trees and also to put ten pounds in the poor box.

My Dad often quoted this story to me on lessons of what can happen with a gun, even if one is not careless and another lesson I learnt, was when attending a driven shoot. The youngest gun (me) was asked to fire at a scarecrows head watched by all the shoot guns. It was a terrible sight to watch the blood flow down the from the head of the scare crow on to his coat, for concealed under the targets hat was a gallon of red oxide paint ,which made the point exactly about shooting low birds. The next story is also a shooting story about the death of one of Dads idols, a man which he would quote to us as children of his integrity, wisdom and insight to life and he lived in a remote part of Belmullet.

 

Jamesie

 

I was aged seven and on holiday in Shean with my family; when a telegram gave the news that Jamesie Geraghty was dying. Father and I left the family to drive to the Mullet peninsula of Co Mayo, so he could pay his last respects to Jamesie. As we drove, he spoke off Jamesie non-stop for the half hour journey. Like why he was nicknamed Shakespeare. It seemed, he was given the complete works of Shakespeare as a memento, when the local estate was sold. Jamesie was illiterate, but he had his daughter read each play in turn to him, so that with his perfect recall, he could quote, at will any passage from the bard of Avon. Or how, he was honoured by the Royal Society of birds for his work on the preservation of the red necked phalarope, a rare visitor to Ireland and Co Mayo. He could name each bird that flew and each plant that grew around him, in three languages, Irish, English, and Latin. He could even tell the number of pinion feathers on any bird, in his Domain. But above all, he enjoyed recalling how they first met. It was a mid November afternoon in the early 1940¡¯s, he wanted the help of a Gillie to shoot a grey lag goose and Jamesie was recommended. He found his thatched house nestling in a hollow, below the brow of a small hill that overlooked Tamacara Lake. To the north bog-land filled with snipe, to the south the Atlantic Ocean. It was a cold and grey afternoon with a strong north wind, when he knocked on his door and asked if he would act as his Gillie. He said he would, provided, he was a sportsman and could shoot straight. Jamesie was six feet tall, with a thin body, but broad shouldered, white faced with ruddy cheeks. He always wore a large cap that covered a mop of untidy grey hair. He had intelligent black eyes, which missed nothing and saw beyond the superficial. The shooting plan was simple; Father went to the seaward side of the lake where the sand-hills had bent grass in which to hide. Jamesie walked to the opposite end of the lake, about a quarter of a mile away. The lake was only three feet deep. But he had no waterproof cloathing and walked into the lake as he was. Father watched as he decorated his cap and baneen jumper with heather, he found driftwood, camouflaged it too with heather to form a floating hide. He set out across the lake moving from one island of elephant grass and bull rushes to another. He did not disturb the hundreds of pintail, pochard and brent that he passed, they simply moved out of his way. Three quarter way down the lake he came on the grey lag, which took flight and within easy shot of my Father, who raised his gun and fired two shots. The discharge frightened the geese, but they lost not a single feather. Jamesie came out of the water and looked in disgust at my Father, who had rejoined him at the lake. He refused to be driven back to his cottage, to change his clothing, preferring to walk. Father stood on a little bridge and watched as the birds took to the air. They were framed by, black clouds trimmed with white edges, the hill with the red door of Jamesie cottage visible, the sand- dunes and the lake . The birds were layered, at the top, tens of thousands golden and green plover. Beneath them were thousands of snipe, jack, common, great. Lower again hundreds of duck of all kinds from the dainty teal to large colourful shell drake. By the sand dunes he saw the geese pitch on to the deserted beech. To add colour to the scene, sea birds came to investigate, great black gulls, herring gulls and little sanderlings. Father was well above an average shot and could not understand his embarrassing miss. He sat for half an hour watching the wild life spectacle; before he plucked up the courage to face Jamesie. He knocked on his door and was bid to enter. He apologised for his failure to bag a grey lag. Jamesie, suspecting something amiss, asked if might examine a cartridge .He found a penknife and removed the cardboard cover and emptied the contents on a table. Then he began to laugh and laugh and laugh. Father too looked to see what was so amusing, on the table where there ought to have been shot was confetti. He was not long married and his brothers knew he was on a sporting honeymoon and had substituted confetti for shot. They laughed together for a long time, which sealed a bond of friendship that was never broken.



                                                         14

          I have heard the next story told, in so many ways, by my father and uncles in the dinning room table in Shean, so many times that I long ago lost count of them. But I will tell my own favourite version and probably make combination of all of them.

                                                          

 

                           Fishing with explosives

Major Roberts lived in a large Georgian farm house with two hundred acres attached. The house was built on a small hill that overlooked the river Boyne. He was a forty five year old man, very heavy with an unhealthy deep red complexion. He had been badly wounded in his right leg during the second world war and now can only get around slowly with the aid of a stout walking stick. He was always a loner   but to make matters worse for him his wife had died soon after his return from captivity in Japan, where he had nearly died on several occasions from starvation and over work by his Japanese captors. He had few if any friends.  His pastimes were shooting and fishing which were a means to an end in keeping his larder full, it was said ‘his only friend was his three year Springer spaniel Snipe which he trained to be a useful gun dog.

During February on cold days he would sit in his dinning room which was heated by a log fire and he would look out a bow a window and down across a small paddock on to the river below him. From there he could see the entire two hundred yards of   pool Fada. At its neck was an eleven foot weir where water cascaded below it and created an ideal lie for a salmon; while further down was a two hundred yard glide where Mallard found refuge in the extensive reed beds that extended into the bottoms on either side of the river. One morning after breakfast while he looked out the window he saw a salmon jump at the foot of the weir, it was the first he seen that season. It was a large fish, he thought it might weigh, maybe thirty pounds which although big, it was big was common occurrence in the early nineteen fifties. He immediately got his salmon fly rod and left for the river, he knew the fish was trapped until a flood came to help it ascend the weir and escape.  Major Roberts was followed by Snipe as they stalked up the bank stealthily to where the Major had seen the fish rise earlier and waited. Sure enough after an hour the fish showed again, it was even bigger than he had first thought well over forty pounds, it was fine fish and again thought Major Roberts if I could catch and sell it, the proceeds will keep me in drink for the next six months.

Each day for the next week the dog and its master tried to catch the salmon and although on one occasion it followed the fly the fish had no interest in being captured .The Major knew rain was not far away, wind had increased from the south west and the clouds thickened turned dark blue and the barometer had dropped.  Again he thought desperate measures were required to kill the salmon ,as  he was well versed with explosives and  had a license to use dynamite in his quarry , he was resolute that if could not have the fish nether would anyone else. Major Roberts saw the rain falling and knew that a flood would follow and take his fish away. He went to his explosives safe and selected stick dynamite with six-minute fuse; he climbed into his waterproof clothes and set off to the river with his explosive under his coat and a net on his shoulder followed by the faithful Snipe. As he reached the river the fish jumped in its usual spot about thirty feet away from him. He removed the dynamite from under his coat struck a match and lit the fuse and threw the explosive into the middle of the circle that the fish had made on the water. Then, he withdrew as fast as his injured leg would allow him; he took cover behind a large rock and waited. To his horror he could hear barking followed by a splash as Snipe dived into the river to retrieve the dynamite. Snipe was always eager, fast and obedient to a fault. Roberts out of condition and slow was too far away to call the dog off and Snipe returned to the riverbank in the blink of an eye and bounded off in the Majors direction. His master could see what had happened and left the shelter of his rock and headed up the incline to his house as fast as his gammy leg would allow. He could hear Snipes paws scraping over the rocks behind him as the sound of dividing rushes grew ever louder, as the animal gathered speed and closed the distance between them. Sweat broke out on the Majors brow, he threw away his heavy waterproof coat to gain extra speed, but the faster he travelled the more he stumbled, finally he tripped over a small stone and fell down exhausted and unable to move, although he was just twenty paces from the safety of his own front door. Snipe arrived panting and stood over his master, his eyes bright and his tail wagging with anticipation of a treat for his work, as the Major always kept in his pocket for such occasions.  Snipe dropped the almost fuse less smoking brown stick of dynamite at his master’s head and stood back sat down and waited as he was trained to do.


                                                                       15                                                      

                 Another well known story in Sheans  dinning room  of my father.

 

                                             Beckets Eye                                                                                                                                                                                    

          I often meet Cornelius Vaughan with whom I shared salmon fishing at pool dub on the river Boyne. This is a secluded place surrounded by mature beech and willow trees, on a slight rise nearby is a large flat rock known as the Lickey. We would sit on it to take our pipes; in the spring ‘the still of the water, is only broken only by the graceful rise of a salmon. My young friend Cornelius is 30 something, tall, unmarried, unfit, untidy, overweight, with long shoulder length brown curly hair and a unkempt appearance: he is very wealthy, generous to a fault and a brewer. One day, excitedly, he told me he had been invited to London by a Lord Becket the president of the world hop and brew masters society to lecture members on brewery efficiency and innovation.  Vaughan had revolutionized his own brewing process and was asked to share his secrets in Clarages Hotel in London, England, where the 30 delegates were to stay. They were all requested to attend the meeting wearing their national dress.

 I noticed a change in Vaughan when I met him a month later, his hair was tamed to fit in layers neatly around his collar, I thought he had lost a weight too and even his fishing gear had a somewhat smarter look to it. He was sitting on the Lickey’ with a freshly run 13 pound salmon on his right and to his left 2 large bottles of his own beer and a packet of cheese sandwiches and a self satisfied smile on his face.

‘How did you get on in l London I asked him?’

‘ It was a special !’He said ‘ I dressed in the costume of ‘The Vaughan family, a black leather cap, golden cape and kilt of the chief which now I am.  The people, colours, languages and excitement: I sat at the top table with Lord Becket and 3 others.   Becket dressed as a Peer of the Realm, wearing a red cape- coat trimmed with ermine, contrasting with his untidy long gray hair and furled whiskers.   He was a ‘puddin' of a man, with a keen eye and owner of 3 breweries and the societies president for the 3rd time. Beckett took me into is confidence immediately and explained how at his advanced age he had to leave the dinning table regularly and how his left eye might play up with drink, He said ‘it might change colour from its normal hazel, to green, to blue and then red’. I was asked to report to him any changes to it that might take place during the dinner, as he would get Hell from her Ladyship if his left eye turned red.  I sat on Beckets right next to a lightly suntanned lady with shoulder length honey coloured hair, the 25 year old Anna O' Malloy Gonzalez from Argentina. She dressed as a city gaucho in soft leathers that exactly matched   her complexion, the light tan suede knee- length skirt buttoned up the left side, an open well filled yellow shirt was covered by deeply darted waistcoat and matching knee boots to adorn her legs.  On Beckets other side was Roberto Juliana Mumba from Uganda dressed as a Massai chief wearing an ostrich plume headdress with his other regalia slipped over a neat Seville row suit.  Individual tables were set for 4 people; each setting had a beautiful mini dark loaf on a side plate and 4 bottles of beer, one of which had a strange look about it. The president introduced us speakers saying how the industry was suffering worldwide from over taxation and government control plus the anti-drink lobby and needed to become more efficient and innovative and he hoped the speakers would offer brewers new insights. He proposed a toast to the gathering and asked us to open his Beckets beer in front of us and warned us, that it was one of his best, but strong.  I was first to speak on my chance discovery of Erinaze and Speedaze enzymes. I explained when doing experiments over an open beer vat in my laboratory, while eating a salmon sandwich, I noticed that the maturation process speeded up by 50 %.  After a little work I isolated 2 enzymes, I tracked their source as the head of a salmon, some fish which must have fallen in the vat from my sandwich and as they say the rest is history. Now, I make more money now from the sale of enzymes than I do from beer, I proposed a toast to our president and I had brought along my best strong beer for the audience.  When I sat down Beckett congratulated me on my presentation, I noticed his left eye had changed to green, but did not mention it, as he introduced Anna to speak.’

‘Anna stood up and immediately reached for an Argentine beer in front of her and asked each guest to do the same. ‘This beer comes with the complements of my father Antonio’ she said, raising her hand, it was then she must have felt the pressure, where a button from her skirt had become entangled in the hem of my kilt so when she stood to her 5 foot 2, she saw how my kilt was pulled level to the table. Anna glanced down, her eyes opened wide, her lips made a perfect O and a mischievous grin appeared on her face. She went on, my innovation is the use of a special brew mix for bread making purposes. The bread you had at dinner was my bread did you enjoy it? ‘General applause. Now my father’s brewery is selling beer no tax or vat to bread makers throughout Argentina and it accounts for 20 % of his business… Unfortunately, when Anna sat down the pin of my kilt clasp became embedded in the tablecloth, so as she descended her skirt ascended to join my kilt leaving us bare legged under the table. I felt an electric shock on my hairy leg, extra warmth and a seriously accelerated heartbeat.  When I took a quick peep I could see a beautiful dimple lost on a tanned shapely leg which disappeared into a suede boot that was planted between my legs .At this point Becket settled down to his job of host and beer critic. ‘Congratulate Antonio on magnificent beer ‘ he said to Anna holding his glass high  .His eye had turned a vivid blue and I had no choice but to inform him.’ 

 

‘Our last speaker is Roberto Mumba from Uganda’ said his Lordship. ‘Roberto stood up and straightaway asked us to pick up the bottle secured in a plastic bag and twist its lid off and pour the beer. Now use your fist to break the bottle, we all complied. ‘I will explain ’Roberto said the ostrich plum making circles over his head. ‘My grandfather emigrated from Italy to Uganda during the ground- nut expansion plantations and he became temporally wealthy until over production and the scheme crashed and the plantation and factories have remained idle since. Our family became brewers and integrated over the years with Uganda families. My innovation is cultivating peanuts for their oil from and I have invented a process, which will allow peanut oil to be extruded like plastic, then blow moulded and sprayed with editable glue and covered with peanuts of various flavours.’ Try them for yourself t and take a sip of beer, I must warn you, it is very strong and see what t you think.’ I thought they both tasted good and complimented him on his products. Becket exchanged some of his salted beer bottle for some of my roasted variety; his eye was now red. ‘Now’ said Roberto, ‘we can eat our bottles or turn them into animal food or fertilizer.’  By now Beckett had lost the run of himself and had ordered a bottle of green Bush whisky, which in is excellent, he poured large glasses for us all. He proffered a glass to me as I was struggling to remove my kilt clasp from the tablecloth. However, Anna took my glass, grabbed my hand and held it tight, stood up, undid the clasp all at the same time and said good night to Becket. When I looked at him, his eye had a union jack with good above it and night below. Anna walked out of the dinning room door still holding my hand and up the stairs to heaven.’

 

I finished off   my beer and sandwiches and Vaughan jumped off the rock and removed an envelope from his pocket and gave it to me, said good bye and set off down the tow path lustily singing La Paloma: I opened the envelope and found a check for the years fishing and a note to say he would be missing. Vaughan had got ‘ it bad poor chap. But to miss a salmon season I ask you …

                                                 16

                       The Cannon and the condom

          In the old days, I would always carry spinning rod with me while fishing in Shean. I still believe to be a true angler; one must be competent in all forms of the art. What I discovered after fishing a pool twice: was that on some days, only a fly would work, at other times only the spinner produced fish while on other days one could catch fish on either fly or spinner.

We have all heard of Priests that have the “power”, in my experience, they are as rare as hens teeth. My friend and fishing partner Doc, who has no tolerance for poachers and shows neither mercy nor remorse when dealing with them.  I had given Cannon permission to fish the river in early April. He arrived dressed in chest waders and Barber jacket which covered his clerical garb and when approached by Doc. Cannon defended himself by saying how I had given him permission. “All the poachers say that” said the Doctor and threw him off the river anyway. It was then Cannon opened his jacket and  revealed his Roman collar. Now, he would  not fish now under any set of circumstances and left the river in a temper. Not a fish was seen or caught from then to August. When the Doctor caught me by the arm and looked me straight in the eyes.”He’s left the black Dog with us Ramor “, says the Doctor to me, he then he pleads with me to go and see the Cannon and convince him to come back and  fish with us again. Cannon told me when I went to see him , “it was bad enough to be invited back in the circumstances by Protestant, but to be turned off the river by one his own faithful was an even greater insult”.  The Cannon relented and returned to the river with his spinning rod: In no time our fish were back again too.  “The "power", sure I never knew he had it”, said the Doc “and the black dog has been called off too”.  Nowadays the Doctor takes a longer, and more thoughtful look at our poachers.

             Cannon has a great sense of humour and often tells this story against himself. He had helped one of his parishioners through a particularly difficult time in their life. The parishioner rewarded him with a day’s salmon fishing on the prestigious salmon fishery of Castleconnel, on the river Shannon. He arrived somewhat late at the venue; anglers had already gathered and stood about in groups awaiting his arrival, so that he was now the centre of attention. He was dressed in part clerical and part angling gear for ease of recognition with his Roman collar. The Gillie walked quickly towards where he parked his ancient car, in among the new Mercedes’ and BMWs of the new riche, mostly his own Parishioners.

          ‘A! Cannon, welcome to Castleconnel, I am Sean your Gillie for the day.  Then, he lowered voice and confidentially asked the Cannon ‘have you brought your condoms with you father?’ The Cannon was more than slightly taken aback, and fudged deeper in the boot of the car, to remove his fishing gear. He heard the Limerick accent lilt into to a further dialogue as Sean sprung into life. So the anglers turned their heads in his direction, to hear what all the commotion was about. The Cannon buried his head even deeper among the assorted fishing rods. However, he could hear every word of the conversation, at full volume between the two Gilles at either end of the car park. 

“Michael… Father has forgotten his condoms.”

          “Jesus, how could he.” Sean

          “I suppose all you have is the used ones!”

            “That’s right”

           “What Condom would be best for the Priest Sean? I have, Yellow, blue, green, red, orange, black or white.”

          “O! Yellow are usually the most popular.” Came the reply

“Do you want them with, ribs, stripped or plain?’ 

“Plain please.”

“I have 5, 10 or 15 grams.”

“Oh, the heaviest would be safest for him, I think!”

“Does he have a Limerick or straight shaft?”

“ The straight shaft would suit him fine” 

“Do you think he would like a tassel on the top?” Sean

“that would be bit gaudy Michel”

“Last week, a silver one did well, what do you think?”“Yes, that would be great.” 

“How long, will he need it for?”

“(A hesitation), as long as possible, please Michel”

“ The condom needs an eye?” 

          “Yes.” 

“Turned up or down?” 

 

“Down is safer. Up, sometimes they can slip off you know.” 

“What about the barb? Will I take it off?” 

“God, Thanks that would be great, it can sometimes hurt them.”

 “How many do you need?” 

“About … six; he’s not very experienced you know Michel.”

“There you are, I hope, he enjoys using them”.

A voice, next to the Cannon; here you are Sir, Six fine yellow spinners for you.   



 17
Der, my friend (whom you have already him in met in Fr Morrison’s hat), invited me to fish on the beat below Shean. We walked to the lake pool together. He gave me strict instructions not to fish the pool from our side of the bank because it required a full length of  line plus a lot backing to cover the pool, also underneath the high bank it was covered in thick  rhododendron. So, we fished the next pool instead. Fatally, I looked back and saw and heard a large splash of a fish back at the lake: the temptation was too much for me. 
                            

 


                                       A Pain in the Neck
Rain fell steadily ay night,
To fishers great delight.
It would have been a perfect day
Except for the storm on Blacksod bay.

My fishing host and old friend Der,
Walked to the lake pool as pair.
“An excellent pool, “he said to me
When fished from the other bank.
We would fish a neighbouring beat,
For me it was to be a treat.
But a rise back at the lake!
Return to fish it or hesitate?
A long cast might yield a take.
A full line plus a lot backing,
Showed the spirit was not lacking.
 
The fly fell as directed,
The fish obliged, as I expected
A fast strike, (line not mended),
Now lay in a ball, (not recommended)
In the rhododendron beneath me.
Untangling it for more than half an hour
Try again or go home dower?
The fish rose for a second time.
A violent strike, strong and fine
It whiplashed my neck, and put me down.
Dangerously close to the water found.
In terrible pain I could not defend
The fury metered by my friend
So much so that I wished the cast might break
As no more sorrow could I take.

The fish plunged beneath the plants
A strong pressure forced it to yield,
Up the pool and into an eddy
This allowed us follow, but canny
Close to where a sheep track sank.
Encouragement given for Der to descend
I simply pushed him in the end.
Rod was thrown to willing hands
The fish still there, but just by strands!
In great pain I too descended,
To net the fish, as was indented.
The fish lay on the purple heather,
quivering still ,with a little shudder.
It was more than fourteen pounds,
Purple top, silver surrounds.

Nowadays limbs are too weak to make that cast,
But still we can lift a glass,
To toast that fish, which on that day.
We now would wish, we had let away.

                                                  18
                                                  Reflection :       
                       As told to me by Mr Fred Mac Manamin of Shean


 Fred stood up from the fireplace. He held a bucket of turf-ash in his hand. ‘Well ‘ He said. ‘You haven’t been staying up late these last nights. 
How do you know that? Said Pauline 
“Well each bucket of ash represents sixteen hours burning”. He said. 
Pauline congratulated him on his detective work and confirmed his observations.
Fred looked out the window and gave a favourable fishing forecast for the day. He looked at me and said. “ If I were you, I would start fishing at Morans old cottage”. That seemed a good idea and planned to do just that, later in the day. Fred was leaving the lounge, as an afterthought he said, “Did I ever tell you the story from long ago, of the old couple, who once lived in the cottage?
Pauline and I shook our heads in reply.   
Fred rested the bucket back in the hearth and sat down. 
 “Long ago, when the riverbanks were heavily populated, and before we had roads here. The best way out was by sea or walking and the only transport was to walk or stage coach any way chosen was dangerous.  A poor couple lived in a thatched cottage near the bend in the river beside pool na grean .The house was built mid way up a hill, a lesson learnt from the big wind of 1782, that swept away so many houses that were sited on the hill tops in those days; the cottage was surrounded by cherry trees. News had come to Michael Moran, (the man of the house) that his uncle had died in America,  and had willed him a small amount of money which was God sent.  There was enough money to keep himself and the wife, into their old age and allow one of them to fulfil a dream, which was a visit to Dublin. So that at least one of them, could see the wonders, that they had heard of from anglers that passed up and down the river from time to time. 
Jeanie, the woman of the house, agreed that it would be Michael, who would visit the capital city. On his return home, he would then , tell her all he had seen and heard.   
 Michael arrived in the city, and planned to stay a week. He walked the entire city, it was beyond his expectations. One day as he walked down Sackville street. He looked into a shop window. He noticed in a corner, on a shelf, in front of where he stood, a pocket size picture of his Father. He looked at it very carefully. He could see the dark blue eyes, the same laughing lines on the side of the face. The deep furrowed brow, Grey bushy eyebrows all covered with a black pork pie cap. A stumbled face and full lips,that had just a hint of a smile. He cried to himself, Father, my own dear Father. He did not wait to rationalize as to how the picture got in to the shop. Rather, he rushed in and pointed to it, and for the shop- assistant to package it for him, so he might bring it home. 
 Michael was home again in Mayo. The journey took him a week in the stage coach from Dublin to Westport and three days on foot to return across the mountain  and bog to his home. Jeanie was delighted to see her husband. To hear his description of all the wonders he had seen. They never had secrets between them, and they loved and trusted each other throughout married life. So when Michel would often secretly take something out of inside pocket and stare at for long periods of time, Jeanie became suspicious. One day when Michel had gone cutting turf, Jeanie stole into their bedroom. Behind the door was his jacket. She fished into an inside pocket. She took out a small framed image, of the old hag that lived in the next cottage. This confirmed, what she thought, there was more to cutting turf for the widow woman than met the eye. She could see the faded blue eyes, the narrow purple lips. The untidy sandy hair. Her eyes blazed in anger, she would have it out with him, when he came home. 
 Michel returned, home to find Jeanie in a temper’. She said  “she knew his secret “. There would be no denial; he had a picture of the widow woman in his pocket. It’s me dear Father was all he kept saying, Widow Woman was her reply. So the row raged, back and forth. In those days the priest settled disputes. They set out for the presbytery a five mile walk over rough ground. 
 It was dark when they arrived. They explained the problem to the priest, who brought them into the kitchen where there was an oil lamp for light. Michel put his hand in his pocket and handed the article to the priest. He studied the image for some time and bid them, both be quit. He then declared them, both wrong. That it was the picture of old priest whom he had replaced thirty years ago. He saw the angry jet black eyes, the narrow face, the grey eyebrows, white face, and thin mouth. He was frightened by what he saw and the picture drooped from his hand and the mirrored glass broke into a thousand pieces on the flagged floor. 
 

 

 19
Anyone who has ever visited Shean will have their own story to tell about the experience. In my case this particular one I am about to relate has lasted my entire life. What do I mean? Well, when I was about sixteen years old, our family would spend July in Shean. My sisters had brought a girl friend with them to play with, we had all known each other from birth and I can honestly say I was more interested in fishing than girls. However, something changed on that holiday, and I can still pin point the time and place it happened that I fell in love, although we did not get married until eleven years later.
Bun Mor

The leather settee was pushed close to the turf fire; two old club chairs were set on either side of the settee so they trapped every degree of warmth.  Above the fire was a metal mantelpiece that had so many coats of paint it seemed to have more paint than metal.  Looking down from ten feet above was a red stag.  It was a royal as it had twelve spikes to its antlers.  On the walls were geese, a Brent and a White-front each in its own glass case.  Behind the settee was a specimen sea trout with an inscription plaque and underneath it stood an old glass cupboard.  The room’s wooden storm blinds were pulled closed to keep in the heat, and they rattled in the wind.  A storm was raging outside Shean Lodge.
 There were just the two of them in the big room, an old man and a young  boy.  The man was seated in the middle of the settee.  He had a large glass of whiskey in one hand and a pipe in the other.  He was well into his seventies and he wore a well-used Donegal tweed suit and had sheepskin slippers on his feet.  He was very happy to be in charge of his grandson Jonathan. 
The boy searched for a toy to play with in the cupboard while his grandfather dozed.  He was about ten years old, of thin build with ash blond hair, and he was wearing his pyjamas for bed.  He had pulled most of the contents of the cupboard onto the floor and in the middle of all the accumulated rubbish the boy had found an old photo album.  He had become engrossed in it.  There were pictures of his grandfather on various fishing expeditions and shooting parties at Shean.  He brought the album to his grandfather to look at. 
“Questions you always have questions” said his grandfather.  “Who is this and what’s that?”
Jonathan had found a picture of a young girl.  It had the simple inscription under it ‘Bun Mor ‘57’.  This small photo was the only one to have a page all to itself.
“Who’s that, where was it taken?”  The child asked. 
 The old man took the photo from him and studied it.  Jonathan climbed over a club chair and joined him on the settee. 
His Grandfather said, “I can tell you nearly everything about that photo.  It was taken in July of 1957.  The sun had shone every day for the previous two weeks of our holidays.  I was a boy then of sixteen.  I was disgusted with the weather, not a chance of a fish from the river; even worse, Shean was full of girls, with three of my sister’s girl friends staying in the lodge.  Every day we were brought by my father to the beach at Doagh to swim, spear flat fish or net shrimp.  Life was not so bad for a boy, except for all the girls.  They always managed to get in my way, or complain about me; Just as things were about to become interesting. The girls would cry out at the slightest thing that I did to them and complain to my mother.  One day father decided we would do a hill walk to Bun Mor.  It was quite a long way to go for the younger kids.  We were all given glass bottles of water by mother as well as fruit and a sandwich.  The eight of us, my three sisters, their girl friends and dad and I, set off to Bun Mor.  I was given an old Brownie box camera by mother to take photos on the walk.
Father was the leader of our party.  We left Shean at about noon together with Croom, our golden retriever.  We followed the little stream in front of the Shean that twisted and turned its way up into the scraw under Bun Mor.  The heather was high in those days and Croom was kept busy chasing grouse. The cock grouse would stand on little turf hillocks to keep watch over his pack of ladies. The cock got very agitated by the dog and flew with a pretend broken wing, to draw him away from the young chicks, which could only just fly. This performance tormented poor Croom. Father would stop to look at the bog wild- life on the way. Plants of all sorts had to be examined, such bog-cotton, spider traps and sundew insect-eating plants. That day we even found orchids, deep red ones. In the steam, little trout would rush to get out of our way as we splashed towards the bottom of Bun Mor. In the sky we saw larks, snipe and even a goshawk, which had killed a young grouse chick.
When we reached the bottom of the hill, the younger kids were tired. It would take another half hour to walk to the top of the hill. Four of the girls, Croom and I commenced the walk up the north side of the hill. The heather was long and some of the girls had bare legs so the heather began to scratch them, and they turned back, except for one who wore long pants. We two decided to walk on to the top of Bun Mor with Croom bounding ahead of us, chasing hares and disturbing an occasional wood cock. When we reached the summit a magnificent vista unfolded. We could see to the west over Ballycroy to the sandy beach of Doagh where we had speared the flat fish, beyond the beach  Clare Island stood as a lone sentinel in the glistening Atlantic. Between us and the coast were miles of empty bog land. To the East, Shean looked a mere speck at the end of the gravelled bog road. South, underneath us, turf smoke from the chimneys of half a dozen thatched cottages rose straight to the sky. Each cottage sat on a small square of golden meadow with a turf stack nearby. On the southern horizon, we could see Slieve Mor, the highest mountain in Achill. That day it wore a cap of a tiny cloud. We ate our lunch and lay down to rest in the heather. It was so long that we were covered completely. By accident our hands must have touched. We held each other’s hand. That seemed to last for a long time. Eventually, I sat up, pulled her very close to me and stole my first kiss from any girl. I thought she enjoyed it, but suddenly she got up and ran away from me and down the mountain to find the others in our party. I was left alone with Croom. But larks seemed to sing sweeter, fly higher and the mountain to change colour to a darker shade of purple.”
Jonathan studied the head and shoulders photo of a young sun-tanned girl with bobbed hair and in the background a mountain with a wisp of cloud on its summit. Her eyes were partly closed, and she had a shy smile on her lips. Her head was slightly turned towards the camera, and she wore an expression of either of surprise or jubilation on her face. He looked more closely at the old photo. 
 “That’s my Granny” he said, very slowly. “I know it is, I just do!”
The storm continued to rattle the shutters, the boy sat on the settee quietly thinking but said nothing.     

 

For Inki second  October 2002.

                                                              20

                                                    About the neighbours

                                                         A WASP

Elizabeth F ..., I only met when fishing the boundary lakes, now called Lough Gaul, which are near her house, and which was at one time Shean’s school. We would exchange pleasantries and sometimes she would offer me some rosemary from her garden for our lamb, and  that was about it. It was not until Dad was throwing a dinner party in the lodge and Miss F... was invited along with the PP of the time did I learn that there was a lot more to this short, wiry and very proper American lady  than seemed on the surface. Father was telling a story of a flying fortress that crashed in Belmullet. All the crew escaped unhurt and were repatriated to the six counties. The RAF came to collect the plane and the only thing that had been missing from its cargo was chocolate. The locals then began present at Doctors surgeries for miles around complaining of serious sleep deprivation. What happened, was the plane carried Benzedrine chocolate to keep pilots awake while they were on duty. This anecdote caused a ripple of laughter; helped by the volumes of wine, which no doubt loosened tongues.  Miss F ... piped up that she had flown the flying fortresses during the Second World War. It turned out she was a ferry pilot and a member of an elite an group of woman pilots in the US forces. She told us how she had been chosen from thousands of applications and had six months training and then flew a B45 across the Atlantic to conserve a drastically short supply of male pilots for war duty. What the girls feared most she said, was the male maintenance crews, who deliberately sabotaged the planes to discredit the women pilots. When she reached England she became a ferry pilot for the RAF and while repositioning an unarmed mosquito aircraft she was attacked by a German fighter plane. She out flew the other fighter to the extent that it crashed and she was awarded distinguished flying medal by the RAF a rare thing in its self , but hardly ever given to women. Then, she suddenly stopped talking and stood up and walked out of the dinning room  and walked home.

What Elizabeth did not tell us was that  in 1944, when America was Desperate for trained pilots 25000 experienced women pilots applied to join the WASP , (women’s air force service pilots force)and only 1037 were accepted, and they were trained to a higher standard than their male counterparts, and often in unsafe civilian planes. They flew every type of aircraft at the time and were distributed across all air force command from transport to fighter command and all points in between. They only flew non combatant missions; even so 37 of them lost their lives serving their country.  Their families had got to pay the air force for the return of these brave women’s bodies for burial. If you thought that was bad, how about when they ferried the bombers across the Atlantic and Pacific, they had to pay the  cost of the return journey  home from their wages. In fact the women were not recognised as part of the air force until 1977, when they were declassified as top secret and given honourable discharges from the air force. The service was stood down in 1944, by the then commander of the air force; they had flown collectively more than 60 million miles for their country.

 

 

 

                                          Lord Clive of India 1725/ 1774

I always thought that Shean was built on the Clive Estate until I read in Christine Calveys Shean project that it was built on the Bellingham Estate, nevertheless the Clive estate was where the famous Shean boundary pool is now and ran in the direction of the boundary lakes or Lough Gall already mentioned. I saw a statue of Lord Clive in Whitehall in a prominent place and I thought he must have done something important for the establishment. His achievement was to deliver the Indian sub content for the crown and all the wealth that followed, amassing a fortune for himself in the process. I never really knew much about him, following is a short version of his story.

          In 1744 Clive was sent to India by the East India Company as a writer in the civil service. He distinguished himself as military man at twenty years of age while fighting the French. In 1753 he returned to England, a wealthy man. In1755 he was again sent to Madras with the rank of lieutenant Colonel to command a fort south of Madras, after many battles culminating with the battles of Plassey which he won by guile by persuading the Indian allies of the French to leave the battle field without firing a shot. The success of this battle allowed the British to control the north of India and untimely control the subcontinent. In 1760 he returned to England fabulously wealthy, but a lot of questions were raised as to how this wealth was procured, questions which never went away. It was at this time he obtained estates in Ireland. In Clare, he had land what is now the university of Limericks Campus and he built his Mansion there and named it Plassy . He also bought his estate in Mayo and I think built  Croy Lodge ( more of in awhile ) and Rock house near Ballveany bridge. In 1765 he returned to India having sown the seeds for the British to prosper beyond their wildest dreams.  He returned to England in 1769, but the rumours of his misdemeanours and corruption persisted, until he committed suicide in London using a penknife and died in 1774.

 

 

 

 

         W.H. Maxwell (author of: Wild Sports of the West)

          If wild sports of the west not been read by my Dad certainly I would not have fished the Owenduff. He bought the book in 1935 and fell instantly in love with Ballycroy. In August of that year, he and his brother Jack set off to find the Owenduff River and in the process discovered Shean. Count John Mc Cormack (the famous Irish tenor) was in residence at the time, but more of him later, they asked him for permission to fish.  The Count suggested that one of them might fish and the other shoot. They divided up and by evening had a salmon and brace of grouse in the bag, so began the Craigie association with the district.

          Although Maxwell is not really a neighbour as such, his influence is so great that a little about his life and times is defiantly part of the Shean story. William Hamilton Maxwell was born in Newry, County Down in 1792. He was ordained into the church of Ireland in 1813 was given a parish in 1819. After offending many people with practical jokes he was transferred to a parish in the Tuam area. It was ideal for him in that the parishes only existed on paper which allowed him to enjoy the good shooting and fishing of the area with a good income. He became a friend of the Marquis of Sligo who owned Croy lodge at the time and also which  features in the book, he took rooms in the officers' mess in Castlebar barracks, although he never had any connection with the army,  but was a popular member of the mess.

          I would say that Wild sports of the west is my second favourite  field sports book the first is Robert Roark’s “ the old man’s boy”, but it is my second most preferred choice. It is not easily read and most people have as many false starts with it , as Ulysses by Joyce and that says something about this book. It is not boring to read, quite the reverse, but it’s the language seems to slow down the pace at which it can be read. So if you are tempted to read it, give it plenty of time and by the way it is available for free on the internet.  I will just give to tiny examples from the book to wet you appetite.  

          Maxwell tells us how he overcame the problem of catching the Ferrox trout that were in the volcano lakes at that time, in the Nephin Mountains that overlook Shean. What he did while they were camping up in the hills, was to send for geese and attach a cast of worms to their legs and swim the birds across the lake. Even my father would be hard pressed to beat that bit of lateral thinking. The second was the sad tale of the starving family that lived on the south side of the boundary pool. The man of the house heard that Government grain was being issued in Bangor Erris and walked there and got his sack of grain and returned home to find the river in flood. He was so desperate to feed his family he tied to cross the river and was drowned. These kind stories go on for about 250 pages and are well worth the effort of reading them, if you like field sports ,wild places and you  enjoy a sense of fun and his keen eye  for the  natural world.   

Maxwell's life ended sadly, when he lost his Tuam parishes and his income, but despite having a good income from writing his wife left him because he constantly over spent his income.  He died in Musselburugh in Scotland in 1850 and was buried in an unmarked grave.

                                                            21

                                                 The Apprentice

When you are twelve years old, it’s hard to hold one end of a gas cylinder and lift your feet out of the bog all at the same time. F...., my family’s game- keeper and general factotum walked ahead of me, up to a small stream that flowed from the foot of Bunmor hill.  F.... had a thin face with black laughing eyes, covered with red bushy eye brows and had a hooked nose. He wore a tweed overcoat, but no hat, which allowed his sandy hair to fall over his eyes. He had the ability to, charm a bird from a bush, glide over deepest bog, even get a shine on suede shoes, mostly remain on the good side of the little people and manufacture the very best poteen.

Disturbed grouse, flew from beneath our feet, cackling their complaints as they sought new sanctuary elsewhere, supervised above by sky larks and from the bracken by red pools.  I was relieved to arrive at the North face of the hill where frightened rabbits scampered to their burrows in the long Mediterranean heather. Beneath the warren, a water flash glistened in the feeble morning sunshine; it had a slight ripple from a warm westerly wind.  F....  was like a magician, as he pulled on a hemp rope which rose slowly to the surface of the water flash. First to emerge from the water was a metal cradle, followed by a heavy milk churn, then a twenty foot coil of copper and finally another empty milk churn. We placed the cradle by the lake and connected a length of rubber hose from the gas cylinder to the burner. We lifted the churn onto the cradle, removed a rubber bung from its lid and replaced it with the coil which was then submerged in the lake, so it terminated in the small stream we had just ascended.

The gas flame was lit and the contents of the churn began to heat.  F.... informed me, this was the third run of the poteen, the one that was to be ‘sure to be sure’.  It would take the full cylinder of gas to distil the contents of the milk churn, later he would conduct the all important flame test, a purple flame for good stock and a yellow flame for wood alcohol. The flame was purple, so I was dispatched to the rabbit warren where my father often shot rabbits in an unusual way. He placed a stub of a candle on the back of sea crabs and inserted them in the burrow. The crab fled from the light and the rabbits from the crab. The result, many rabbit pies cooked   for us by my mother.

 I started work at the top of the warren. I put my arm down the first of the rabbit holes, until I found fishing gut and pulled on it until a bottle came out of the hole. Each bottle contained money, mostly in sixpences, for a refill of poteen. I fetched the bottles; while F.... filled them and pocketed the change, and then I returned the bottle to its hiding place. The process took the best part of six hours. The accounting was simple, each patron had his own hole, which was known by the clients name for example, there was the priests, the judges and the sergeants holes and so on, and it was a very big warren.

 My training would be tested some five years later, when I was seventeen years old and working in Devon, England.  

             I was staying in a pub in the centre of a village. After work I would join the locals for a pint and a chat. One evening I was approached by a man known, by the locals as the Major and to his friends as Blinki. He wore a black beret, pulled over his right eye, with some sort of badge with a camel on it, worn at the back of his head. He carried a crutch to support a missing right leg; he was six foot six tall and would have been fine except, he had lost a right arm too. So his crutch was attached to the remains of his arm by a leather strap, but this did not seem to dent his ability to get about.  He had a reputation of being a very mean man. So, I was surprised when he offered to buy me a drink. I accepted the offer and was sipping away, without much thought of any consequences. Then, he asked me what I knew about distilling? Could I use a still or even better could I make one? I explained how I was once apprenticed to a poteen master.  This information got him excited, to the point where he bought me a second pint. He explained that he wanted to convert his vast stock of cider into calvados.  I told him  the necessary components,  a vat, a coil sometimes called worm , a receiver and a heat source, I  said  innovation for these products  is quite  normal.  We arranged, to meet in his stables the following evening, where he would have the equipment ready for me to cobble together to make a still. As I walked up his avenue the following afternoon I could hear raised voices.  

‘No Blinki no, no, no, Blinki

‘It will be fine old girl, think of the pleasure you have from drinking it.’

            I arrived just in time, to stop the row escalating, Mrs. Blinki, tossed her head in the air and walked off in the direction of her manor house, but not before making it very clear to me that, I was to blame for her spouse’s behaviour. The cause of the poor woman’s protest was in front of me. The vat , was her mothers large bright copper preserving pan, covered with a inverted tongue dish used for collecting steam  from her cooker, the forty foot one inch copper  coil, had been the main conduit for moisture to her walled garden, which was her sole preserve. The receiver was a sixteenth centaury Ming vase, from her side of the family; finally the heat source was her kitchen gas cooker. The Major, apologized to me for his lack of progress,   he said he had found it hard to climb the ladder to the loft where he wanted to position the coil in a bath for cooling.  He had managed to extract it single handed from his gate lodge,  much  I am sure  to annoyance of his wife and any  future tenants.   I soon created a viable still in the stables, the vat in one stall, the coil positioned in the bath in the loft, cooled by water from a tap from the stable yard and the retuning the sprit was collected in the second stable in the Ming vase.

            The cider was bubbling merrily away in the preserving pan covered by the tongue dish. Blinki, as he now asked me to call him and myself were enjoying a chilled glass of his cider, when his daughter Caroline arrived from having exercised two polo ponies, which were temporally without a home, and had to be placed in a nearby field.   Caroline joined us in our libation, and I was soon arranging to meet her the next day to go horse riding, the distilling forgotten; the charms of the shapely blond Caroline and a chance to see the country side on horseback, had more appeal. Blinki had a bit of a reputation, when it came to drinking .The cause was thought to be the war where he had been so badly wounded. He had won all sorts of medals for bravery. However, he had spent so long in the desert, it was also said that he swore to himself and anyone else who would listen that he would never be short of a drink again, and he kept his promise.

            The story went that Blinki was deep behind enemy lines in the desert six months before the second battle of El Alamaine. It was a long term scouting mission, with three other Special Forces soldiers, that provided information for the generals planning the battle. The soldier's transport was   four lovesick, bad tempered camels called Jasmine, Abdul, kirime and Alli.   Alli loved Kirime and Abdul loved Jasmine, work interfered with their marriage prospects, and they didn’t like it.  The group worked alone, except for an occasional radio message to their base. They scouted their opponent’s positions, carried out acts of sabotage and generally made a nuisance of themselves. They spoke Arabic with a local dialect and wore native costumes, and operated from a small hidden Waddi with very finite amounts of water. When the camels returned from a raid, no matter how the soldiers tried, the camels always got to the water first which made it muddy and worse; Apparently, a love sick camel drinks more water than celibate one, so the Major tried to keep the males separate from the females, and as a result they were very nearly captured, by the bawling from the love sick animals.  So then, he ordered that the lovers be kept together, which caused another problem, often after a raid and they needed a quick getaway. They found their transport deep in lovemaking and not inclined to want move. If the soldiers were caught it meant certain death, as they were in fact spies.  Then Blinki remembered the army’s solution to the problem, where the cooks were ordered to add bromide to the troop’s tea to cool their ardour.   So when Blinki ordered a consignment of Bromide, headquarter staff was puzzled as to what was its purpose.   With water was as scarce as hen teeth and the only container for it was the tiny well itself. Blinki had no option but to add the Bromide directly to well. Unfortunately, the troops had no choice but to drink the stuff themselves, which explains why, that major and his wife, were never to know the weeded bliss they had enjoyed before the war. The system worked and the troops and the camels performed amazing feats, until the day before the battle.  An aircraft with a single bomb made a direct hit on their Waddi, killing all the camels and the three soldiers and left Blinki for dead.

I warned Blinki, for God’s sake not to attempt to use the still himself, because of the danger of running at the wrong temperature and producing wood alcohol that cannot  only make one sick but blind too. Next day Caroline and I arrived back at the manor house from exercising her horses on the moors. We were met by the lady of the manor, in a terrible rage, holding a shot gun in her hand, I had the distinct impression she knew how to use it too. I was shown off the premises with the point of the gun. I never got to see Blinki or Caroline again ether. I didn’t know until sometime later, that Blinki was found by Caroline’s mother, lying on his back, using his mouth as the receiver rather than the Ming vase as arranged.  She  helped  him  to stand up, but  he leaned so  heavily on the vase it was reduced  to dust  on the floor around him  and then Blinki had to go to  have his stomach pumped out in the local  hospital.   That ended my distilling career, but, I suppose I am still open to offers.


                                               21

 

                                        Ian:  A portrait of a Hunter

I first met Ian in with of my father, when I returned home from Africa in 1964. At the time he was advising our family on how our family business should proceed. My father and Ian had diametrically opposite views on what should be done. To make a meeting more agreeable Ian invited him to go rifle shooting for deer in Wicklow. He knew my father was a keen huntsman and was then the Master of the Ward Union stag hunt. Father must have told Ian of me and how I had hunted in Africa as he had in his youth, so I was invited along too. As it turned out later, my father’s views were more correct than Ian’s, because in a fairly short time our family had lost our entire business, due to a bad strategically and policy.  Ian only admitted to me some forty years later he might have given us poor advice; this was very last time we met before he died. Ian was an old style Capitalist, who had at his heart, the principles of honesty, integrity, and people; he valued everyone equally from the highest to the lowest in the land and moved between them effortlessly. He was a big man in every sense, more than six feet tall and broad with it, but ponderous in his movements. He would spend more time attempting to avoid walking than it would take to have to have walked the distance; this was a strange paradox for a man that enjoyed outdoor activities such as shooting and sailing. But whatever he did do, he specialised in it and had to excel at it. He was the best shot I have ever come across, both with a rifle and shot gun. He was also a raconteur who delighted in name dropping and could keep the banter going for hours at a time single handed.

       Ian was Capitalist, there have always been ruthless highwaymen throughout history, that stole their fortunes by guile or even with the point of a gun, but he was not one of them. In these days of naked trading where a punter will make a profit from an entity's failure rather than its success is a case in point. I think it is awful to think shady of the characters in dominant positions plotting the future demise of innocent organisations and even nations by vicious attacks on their shares or currency to make a profit for themselves, at any cost to others. I am told that now 1% of the population of the USA owns 50% of the total wealth, while in Ireland the same figure is 5%, and pay proportionally far less in tax than Sean citizen. There is something very wrong when the innocent poor, must pay for the errors of aragent wealthy and the poor are not even given a proper channel to complain. The powers that be:  politicians, church’s ,developers and bankers are now all so distrusted by a majority of people and with nothing to fill the vacuum it must be  a recipe for absolute disaster in the near future unless the situation is amended somehow. Ian did not live long enough to see his beloved bank almost destroyed by the greed of its owners and management. I have now finished my rant on Capitalism.    

Ian and I would spend a week in Shean in the winter shooting often in the company of a third person we would regularly bring home a 150 brace of mixed birds. My father would congratulate us on our endeavours, but tell us at that he would have in his own time brought home 1000 brace of birds. Nowadays all the birds are virtually gone, mostly I think from loss of habitat at home and abroad.

Anytime I think of Ian, I always remember one particular hunt in Jem Kelly’s forest in Wicklow one snowy winter’s day, where we were hunting our beagles. Ian had Tiger and I had Rapereee, we laid the beagles on the trail of a stag.  Ian’s knowledge was such that he knew exactly where a deer was likely to appear on a forest ride-line. The following is the end of the story.

Snow lay thinly on the mountain heather.  Ian stood alone, the flaps of deerstalker hat down and his loden cape pulled tightly around him. A cliff seventy yards to his right, to his left a firebreak which descended the hill.  He heard, Beagle’s tongues echo up from the valley; Tiger’s voice was always the loudest.  He stamped in his frozen foot in the crude hide he had created from pine branches; a jay screeched a warning.   Then, he checked the rifle barrel for snow; pushed the bolt back, and put a bullet into the breach of the 350 Holland, and quickly remove the scope guard and waited.  

Trees stirred where the jay had screeched.  A haze rose from the flanks of the red stag as it moved uphill.  One bound and it was in the centre of the firebreak.  It stood and looked back to where the hounds still hunted.  It was a royal, a twelve pointer, magnificent red and in its prime with bright eyes and a massive muscular body covered with a course winter coat.  It displayed no fear.  He aimed the Scope cross-hair at its heart but the stag moved slightly and was shot in its lung.

Raparee was first to arrive, followed by Tiger their heads were down as they followed the blood trail to the gully.  Tiger stood sentinel on the cliff top, Raparee guarded the gully beneath.  The beagles had the stag at bay.  Ian moved deliberately and slowly down the sheep track.  He could see the deer was fifty feet above him and a hundred feet distant. He rested the rifle on a flat stone and aimed at the stags' chest and“ B… A… N…. G ...” The stag did not flinch at first, but slowly, irreversibly it fell over the protruding rocks and turned over and over  in the air, until it lay, dead at his feet.

23     No Fish for frank by Eric Craigie
My story and Shean would not be complete without including a story written by my father Eric. I was never very sure how good they were until four of his stories appeared in the game angler’s anthology edited by Niall Fallon published by country house ISBN 0-946172-26-9.all the big names are there Kingsmill Moore, Yeats, Maxwell,  Heaney, Luce, and Sir Humphrey Davey and many more. My Dad did not get to see this collection published and to find himself in such famous company, most of these writers had only one story while he had four of his stories included. I was so pleased for him and a vindication for having published books, even if he did some of them himself. So I include his story No Fish for Frank, from the section –The Genus Ghillie.
 No Fish for Frank-Irish sporting sketches by Eric Craigie
 I have often noticed that a good gillie will always carry your fish and never attempt to hide it in case a dog or human being might be on the prowl. This particular day my brother decided to fish up river and we were to fish down to the junction Pool, a long walk. We had only started when I beached a nice fish. I suggested to Frank to put him in the drain and cover him with sods. He reluctantly agreed. We had only fished a short distance downstream when we grassed another two fish. And I had no trouble getting Frank to hide them in a drain running from the bog and covering them with sods.
We fished down to the Junction and called it a day, knowing we had three fish to collect on our way back. When we came to the hide the first fish was gone, likewise the other two. Frank was full of temper,’ I told you the locals had eyes like hawks’ he said. I went  into the sitting- room to find my brother happy and contented having a large Paddy.
‘I only fished for half an hour and got three lovely fish. How did you do? He asked
I killed three fish in the morning and when we came back to collect them they had disappeared’ (we always had a pond bet on who would have the largest bag.)
‘Here, give me my pound,’ he called. I parted with it reluctantly and went to the fish hose where there were three fish on the slab. Frank came in and looked at the fish.
‘They are mighty like our fish, ‘he said and turning them over and over. ‘Master Eric, I know I how I gaffed your fish as I’m Mc Manoman. These are your fish.
I Went to my brother and told him what Frank had said. But no. He killed one in Kane’s Pool, one in Walsh’s and the other by the Lodge. I had no redress on my pound. My brother had a marvellous little bitch called Pip which always landed his trout and salmon. After an hour’s fishing he decided to give up and walk down to meet us. He had only gone a short distance down river when the bitch set. Thinking it was badger he armed himself with stones and put Pip up the drain. She returned with a salmon in her mouth and then the two other fish. She had a marvellous nose and a mouth like velvet. I would never have had my pound returned only my brother was anxious to let us know how good the little bitch pip was. From that to this Frank saw each salmon was put into the fish bag and stayed there.
That was many years ago but I I’m pleased to say that I still get much pleasure from the river, and much of it is thanks to Frank who taught me , my brothers and all our children to fish.

                                  24 The Basking Sharks of Achill

          It was a day my father said he would always want to forget! He was with George M and his brother Jack on a fishing holiday in Shean in September 1954. The weather had been ideal for fishing before their arrival with plenty of rain and storm to raise the river to bring the salmon in from the sea. But that was a week ago and the river had gone back to its original level, skies became blue and wind became a memory as the barometer took effect. The friends became restless and bored and decided a day out on Achill Island would lift their spirits.  They had a reputation of being a somewhat wild bunch at the best of times and, enjoyed their liquor to the full in the village of Keel, and eventfully they made their way towards the perfect horseshoe of Keem bay, which necessitated driving up a narrow unmade road with a three hundred foot cliff running all the way on the left hand side which must have made it difficult enough to drive with  a the few drinks on board. They finally reached Keem, where the bay was made famous by the Paul Henry ‘painting : the launching of the curragh’ which hangs in our National Gallery in Dublin. They stopped at a highpoint of land, where they could see two curraghs manoeuvring in the distance and they wondered what they were doing. They drove on further towards the cove with golden sands and the spectacular backdrop of Crouyhamnanm Mountain in the background. They watched as three men carried a currach to the beach. George chatted them up and asked if they would bring them with them for the trip, he sweetened the request by giving them a ten-pound note, equivalent nowadays to two weeks wages they all piled into the thirty-foot currach (made of canvass stretched on light timber laths and cover with tar) and they assisted in rowing out to the other boats seen earlier. They were intrigued by the operation, which was capturing basking sharks. The process was simple, a crew member poked a shark with a pole to separate the animal from the group of twenty sharks and direct it into a fixed net, where it became entangled, and killed by a man with a long lance. The dead shark was then lashed to the curragh and they would row the boat about four miles back to Purteen. Where the shark was processed at the refining station. Its one ton liver was removed from its seven metre body that weighed seven tons, (that’s heavier than a double Decker bus), and it yielded about one hundred gallons of oil. The oil was used for lubrication of aero engines and in former times to burn in oil lamps. Nothing would do George only to try driving the sharks, which he said later was a bit like driving unwilling pigs. He was given a twenty-foot timber pole with which to prod the animals. However, perhaps George was more enthusiastic than most people in whatever he did. He was in the stem of the currach directing the shark towards the fixed net, he leant heavily on the pole somewhere on the creature’s back, just as the deep swell dropped the boat by more than twenty feet at the same time the shark decided to surface. The result was George, who held the pole tightly was left suspended twenty feet above the currach which was being rowed forward so that he rested somewhat precariously twenty feet above the crew for a few seconds and gently passed over their heads to land in the stern and was lucky not have been badly injured or to have sunk the flimsy vessel by his crash back into the currach. My father who was watching proceeding very soberly now, especially as the face of the shark surfaced to see what was going on above him and appeared only inches from his face. He looked into his wallet and fished out a twenty pound note, which he hastily gave to the boatman to bring them all ashore at once.

                                                                      25

                                         Some famous guests who stayed in Shean

 

I shall confine myself to mention only three guests from the thousands of anglers who have visited the lodge since it was built 1861. They are Paul Henry Artist, John McCormack singer and Charlie Haughty Taoiseach.

Paul Henry 1876- 1958

Paul Henry is one of Ireland’s foremost artists, and stayed for two years in Shean when he acted as paymaster for the Congested Districts Board for Ireland. He was born in Belfast a protestant, and travelled in his youth to Paris and mixed with artists such as Desgas, Toulouse –Lautrec and writers such as Yeats, Synge and Wilde; it was at this time that he married his wife Grace, who was said to be related to the poet Lord Byron.  He took the advice handed by Yeats to Synge ‘that if he wanted to find his Irish roots he should visit the Aran Islands off our West coast which Synge did and gave us Raiders of the Sea as a result. However, Henry chose Achill instead as his retreat, where he painted for ten years between 1910-19; this work typified the early days of the Irish Free State. He was a post impressionist painter, and one of the best Artists Ireland has ever produced in many a person’s opinion. Two of his most famous painting from Achill are the launching of the curragh, (already mentioned) and the watcher. A number of his painting were used by the Irish government to boost tourism and are still used even today.

John Mc Cormack 1884 -1945

Born in Athlone 14 June 1884, he won a scholarship to a Summerhill school in Sligo and sang in the choir there. In 1903 he won a gold medal in the Feis Coil as a tenor and afterwards went to Milan for training and on to sing in opera houses all over the world, and became one of the world’s most popular singers and also one of the best paid of his day. He moved to the USA and became a citizen of America. He died in Botterstown, Dublin on the 16 September 1945. There is a record where the Count flew to Doona about a six mile journey from Shean, and it continued that he sang to a party of American visitors in the Lodge ‘When its moonlight in Mayo’. My Father takes up the story in his book ‘An Irish sporting life’, where he met the Count in Shean, and he was invited to fish the river and to shoot the mountains by him, which he and his brother did and from all accounts had quite a party in the process. It seems that the Count was not a only a poor angler, but he was an impatient one and had the habit of throwing his rod into to the river for the unfortunate Gillie Frank already mention had to retrieve, by wadding in to the river after it. But, Frank got his own back on the Count by sawing through one of the many planks used as bridges to cross drains. He cut through the timber just enough to bear his own light weight, but not the twenty something stone of the Count, with the inevitable result that he gave the Count a good ducking in the water,” just to even things up a little “as Frank used to say himself.

 

On the wall in Shean hangs the following letter written to his friend Monsignor Arthur Ryan, which I quote:-

‘Shean Lodge,

Ballycroy,

Co Mayo

June 9th 39

Carissimo Artuao,

                             Don’t exclaim when you see the above address. We came down here to this wonderful spot to catch or rather seek the exclusive salmo ferox but, alas and alack, no rain or fish. Did you ever hear of anyone cursing fine weather in Ireland before; well here’s one.

Now I want you to come down here for my birthday next Wednesday and stay for a couple of days. You can fish or not as you please. You can certainly see such scenery you can’t see outside Mayo. I now understand the expression, ’Mayo God help us. It must mean ’God help us appreciate the beauties that has been laid before our eyes. ‘If you can come – and come you must-you could come to Dublin and motor with Cyril or come direct through Sligo to Ballina, to Crossmolina to Bangor Erris and To Ballcroy. We don’t have to tell you how wellcome you will be. I promise too tell about the Popes Pius Coronation and how I stood up for 9 hours.

God love you,

                   Lily and Aunty and Cyril join in affectionate greetings and the chorus “Come on Arthur, Atthur by the Mc Cormac’s.

Your friend John Mc Cormack’

 

 

 

 

Charles J Haughty 1925-2006

My Father talks of how Mr. Haughty and he were friends from Stag hunting, and he asked him for fishing lessons, which Dad was pleased to arrange for him in Shean. He invited a party of high powered people to join him, including my sister Virginia and her friend Diana. The fishing had not been so good, but my father had the idea of naming a recently improved weir after the minister.  Mr. Haughty had been given angling lessons by Frank and was pronounced to be an excellent man to throw a line. Mr. Haughty was to cast across the pool and declare it open for use. He must have put a huge effort into his cast so it would have travelled all the way to the other side of the river. Except, unfortunately it was impaled in the minister's ear. So while the spectators enjoyed the Champagne reception, my sister and her friend, both nurses were given the task of extricating the impaled fly. My father describes how he arrived in the kitchen which he said  looked like shambles,  there was so much blood and ends his story at that point in his book. My sister told me later, that she and her buddy were getting a hard time and mauling from the minister and decided to return the compliment to him, by somewhat extending the poking and prodding to remove the fly.  They were not molested again, they said.

I knew the man quite well and was amazed by his contradictions. I met him several times in Dublin Airport where he was waiting with the rest of us for his flight, he would never pass you by without a word and nether would Mrs Haughty. But, my best memory of him would have been shortly after the arms trial...

My Father phoned me at work and told me to meet him that evening in his new house still under construction, and I was to bring along a bottle of Jameson whiskey and three glasses. When I arrived at his new house, for light he had candles, an orange box for a table and the chairs were beer cases.  He was expecting a guest, who turned out to be Mr Haughty. There had been problems in Shean, with some of the net fishing and Dad wanted Mr Haughty’s advice, which was given. I was told to pour the whiskey which I did, three generous helping I thought. But, Father became agitated and told me again to pour the whiskey, what he had meant was the bottle should have emptied in one round.  I remember asking Mr Haughty, what he intended to do now. The arms trail had only finished about a week or so; most people thought he was finished as political leader .He said to me I expect to be Taoiseach in three years. He wasn’t! He did it in twelve months.  Before Dad died, he had a special bottle of whiskey in his spirit locker, kept to toast his departure to the next world, with strict instructions to use the Charlie pour when drinking it with my sisters. We followed his instructions to the to the letter, and bizarrely ,the light bulb fell from a sealing light and a wooden Craigie crest he had fitted to the fire place fell off. We knew he had arrived safely
26
           Uncle Edward: Near disaster in the SAS building Copenhagen
 Edward was probably the bravest man I ever knew. He was my Uncle, one of my Fathers younger brothers. I always seemed to follow Edward, to help him on to the family farm which he managed; when I was a boy, he allowed me to drive anything that had wheels and as a reward I was even given horses to hunt, which I adored. Edward was six feet tall, strong beyond belief, broad shouldered with an enthusiastic and infectious zest for life. Then, I took his place on the board of our family companies, and often borrowed his car, a Hillman husky which I used to make trips to Shean. The car seemed to know its way drunk or sober, night or in day. I have had many bonding moments with Edward over the years, but the one which, I seem to remember most when I stay in Shean, is when I look at Edward’s picture hanging on the dinning room wall. Edward is standing his full height in front of the Husky car holding a fishing rod; it was taken, just before he made a trip to Denmark with my Dad; And, before he had his awful riding accident. When he fell from a horse in Punchestown racecourse and broke his back. He was confided to a wheel chair until the end of his life, some thirty odd years later. At no time did I hear him utter a word of complaint; he never had anything but a smile on his face and carried on as best he could as if nothing had ever happened to him. What a man to have had as my mentor for most of my life, and I miss him very much.
             Near disaster in the SAS building in Copenhagen
I met Florence a French girl on the fringes of a Dairy Congress our fathers attended in Copenhagen. As we were both bored we went sightseeing. She spoke a little English and I a little French. When that didn’t work we communicated by gestures and smiles.  A banquet was held in the famous SAS building conceived by Arne Jacobsen which was only recently opened and designed by him down to the very last detail.  The final Congress dinner, attended by Uncle Edward and Our Father as delegates and us youngsters as guests, we had all planned to go clubbing after the dinner, and we persuaded our elders to leave ahead of the crowd. Well entertained, we made our way to the exit and the open stainless steel lift on the 22nd and top story of the building. Mirrors, advertising and pictures of Denmark surrounded the lift. The lift controls were just inside the door; a notice indicated a maximum capacity of 30 persons. The doors would have closed, except for an inserted shoe, making them reopen and allowing rowdy German delegates pour into the space; forcing us into a corner of the lift; we couldn’t see for a cloud of cigar smoke. I felt a shiver from the lift then a tremor as the overload sensors kicked in order to reopen the lift doors. Instead of passengers exiting the overcrowded lift, more waiting delegates forced themselves on board. Without warning the lift fell two stories as the intending passengers surged forward, and fell headlong on top of hapless occupants. Brakes screeched, as the asbestos lining's bit onto the raw metal. There were angry shouts in German as they burnt themselves with their own cigars; they fell on top, across and between each other, injured, terrified and drunk; what were a band of mellow delegates, became a rabble. Their slightest movement caused the lift to fall rapidly. We watched as the lift's floor indicator stopped at 14. By then passengers had learnt, the greater the movement the further the drop. The escape hatch was above my head; I climbed on my Uncle Edwards shoulders and helped by my Dad. I escaped, onto the roof.  Florence the only female was scared to stay in the lift and was also lifted aloft and I pulled her through the small escape hatch. A fixed ladder on the shaft wall offered us a means of escape. To use it, we were required to jump one metre across a fifty metre drop. We had just gotten up the courage to jump, when a fight broke out underneath us in the cabin. The lift fell a further four stories; we counted them as they passed us by. I would have fallen off only Florence had one hand on the wire- rope supporting the lift and the other on my jacket.  I couldn’t see Florence for smoke, which poured out of the brakes, followed by the shrill of metal to metal as the brake shoes nearing terminal destruction ground us to a sudden halt. Our luck was in though; the cabin roof stopped exactly at door 10 with an internal emergency switch. I pressed it, the doors opened, and we were free.  A short emergency ladder on the lift roof allowed the shaken passengers escape, soberly, gingerly and quickly. Bravely, last out of the lift was my Father and Edward, as they had helped all the injured passengers to escape first.  We all walked down the ten flights of stairs. We never did make the nightclubs nor did I ever see Florence again.  We three Craigies often spoke of the excitement of that night in later life, still with some trepidation. 

 

                                                                                     28

                                                               Shean as Family holiday venue

             Five generations of our family and others have enjoyed the Lodge, as a holiday venue.  The attractions are well documented such as:- Ceide fields, Westport house, and deep sea fishing.  My favourites are the Ballycroy National Park experience, Bird Watching and Hill Walking all of which are in walking distance from the house.

                         http://www.ballycroynationalpark.ie/wildlife.html         

 

            Ballycroy National Park is situated on the entire East side of the Shean stretch of the Owen Duff River, and thus forms one boundary of the National Park. The Park comprises 11,000 hectares and is totally uninhabited. It is made up of entirely Atlantic bog and mountain terrain; this is important because it is one of the last intact bogs in Ireland, indeed in Western Europe. So, the Lodge is very fortunate to have such a neighbour, responsible for its 4000 hectares of shooting rights. Above, I have included a link to the national Park web site, so there is no need for me to mention any of the wealth of information contained on it, except to emphasize the uniqueness of the bog itself, which depends upon a rainfall of > 2000mm per annum. This allows the prolific growth of the sphagnum mosses, black bog rush, moor grass and bell heather, which are some of the main ingredients of blanket bog. This in turn creates a perfect environment for the wildlife present, such as: - Greenland white- front geese, golden plover, Red grouse and otters to mention just a few. Red deer have returned to the area, and another prominent mammal is the Irish hare. The Park interpretative centre in Ballycroy is worth a visit. Included in it are some photographic images taken over the years by guests and some prize fish caught in Shean; As well as detailed explanation of exhibits on the fauna and flora. It is good to see emphases on the lectures for children in the centre.  These will pay dividends for our environment in the future, with a more enlightened children to help guard our environment, from the schooling they received there as play in the centre.

                                                         Bird watching

            It would be very difficult when staying in Shean not to take some interest in the wild life that surrounds one, but in particular the birds. I often fish with a pair binoculars hung around my neck, and I am more than rewarded by the birds I would otherwise have missed. I will not bother naming them or saying where they can be found as the park web site does it all and in great detail. But the time I enjoy most of all is the winter when the migratory birds have arrived such as the field fares, migratory duck and  whopper swans which can be viewed in keel in Achill or go to the Mulranny strand to look at stonechats ,barnacle geese and a host of wadding and seabirds birds too.  In the old days when we used to shoot in Belmullet the bird spectacle was world class, but alas we can only write about it now as it is all gone, almost entirely due to a loss of habit both here and abroad.

                                                          Hill Walking

            If you are into hill walking, the area surrounding Shean is ideal. We are spoilt for choice in the number:- Bunmore a two hour walk, up to the waist in high heather when approached from the north face.  The Volcano walk as we call it, its correct name is Corryloughaphuill, starts at the end of the Bellagaravaun road and you follow the stream to the top of the hill, not only will one find fishing for little brown trout in the lake, but will see where a sluice gate was fitted to try to control the rivers water level, to provide an instant flood for anglers and bring the fish into the river.  It must have cost a fortune to build, and it is a great shame it didn’t work. Scardaun is about a six hour circular walk and a hard one, but with wonderful and constantly changing scenery. Shean is near the Bangor trail, where I narrowly escaped injury. Admittedly, we left on a November day, too late to safely attempt to walk it. Notwithstanding that, we discovered the markers were too far apart or missing. We spent a long time looking for the way; the result was we were nearly caught in the dark of night in the middle of the bog. Only I knew the area like the back of my hand and found the swing bridge at Tarsaghaun River, we were in serious trouble.  I have learnt the hard way, always to check the weather, carry:- wind up torch, a small length of rope, a compass, a spare mobile phone battery , life preserver bag  and food, they may saver your life. From Shean it is easy to access the many walks of Achill Island, and as Prager says in his book The Way I Went. The best walk in all Ireland is from keem bay up the Croaghaun cliffs, up to Slievemor peak and back again to keem bay. Walking  on Mweelrea the highest mountain in Mayo, is very doable, but only in the summer and whatever you don't  walk Nephin Mor it is not a pleasant experience, as it is entirely a broken mountain and one is in danger of falling constantly.  The latest walking attraction is the Mulranny way, which can also be journeyed by cycle and comes highly recommended; from those I know who have experienced it.

 

27

                                       Frank Mc Manamin (1899-1983)

          No matter how much is written about Frank, it will never convey his vitality, curiosity or humour. Donald My uncle described him in a poem which he had framed and hung on the lounge wall of Shean.

                                                 Frank

Like a leprechaun he moves, across the boggy land

Picking out the driest sods, his rod held in his hand,

His stories they unfold themselves with help from Irish gin...

The fairy rock, the elf stones, he told us with a grin.

How to teach the young to catch a trout-

“The storm is coming from the west, to –morrow we’ll be out”

He always filled their little heads with hope of fish to land

“And how to throw along cast! Now Master that was grand”

He still will be with us I know, along the river bank,

No other man will ever live to take the place of Frank.

Donald Craigie 1982

 

          I have already introduced you to Frank, in some of my stories such as: - First visit to Shean, Turkeys, in Tea (I had Frank play the part of the Tinker), and as my mentor in the apprentice.  Father Sean Noone in his book “Where the Sun Sets” tells how the people of Ballycroy, were the deposed people from the Ulster plantations: describing them as dark haired, blue eyed, intelligent, and quick witted, but generous to a fault.  What did he look like? He was less than five feet eight inches tall, weighed about ten and half stone, had a red tinge in what was a fair head of hair, with a patrician nose and narrow tanned face that normally wore a radiant mischievous smile together with dancing brown eyes covered some times by wire framed glasses. He was nibble and I believe won many prises for step dancing a tradition continued by his grand children and great grand children. He followed in his father’s footsteps who had walked over the mountains some twenty miles from Newport to get the position as Gillie Master of Shean that became vacant in the late 1800’s or early 1900’s.  A position Frank took over and in turn passed it to his own son, who passed it to his. So it has been a family tradition for over 100 years.

My poor mother seldom ever gets a chance to speak in my stories, but she was always allowed to tell of her honeymoon experiences uninterrupted. Her story begins in war time England were she had to make the journey from the south of the country to Liverpool to catch the Irish boat for Dublin a dangerous occupation in 1940. Her train had several bomb alerts on the way, she had with her, her two most cherished possessions a wedding dress and cake. She had to choose which to leave in the train when she went to the air raid shelters; and she always left the dress and saved the cake which was given to her as present from her grateful employers. She made the journey safely and I often think she felt that she had betrayed her mother country, in its time of need, by coming to Ireland. I got my name Ramor, as a result of their honeymooning in Virginia Co Cavan on the shores of Lough Ramor; as did my sister Virginia from the town. From there they then went to Shean, which must have been virtually cut off then from the rest of the world. Frank informed them it would be very poor form if they didn’t throw a party for the locals to celebrate their wedding. Frank acted as master of ceremonies and after a week of preparation, they were ready to party. Frank had put the word out about the celebration over the locality. They distilled Poteen, bought, barrels of Guinness which were delivered to the lodge. A pig was slaughtered and salmon caught and no doubt my mother would have done some sort of baking, at which she was an expert.  On the night of the party she said that people walked across mountains, rivers, and bogs and travelled on donkey carts and cycles to get there. The cycles were used in a curious way. There was only one cycle per house, but more than one client for the transport, so the first person cycled three miles and left the cycle on the road to be collected by the next person and so on. Both men and women carried their party clothes in a waterproof parcels and changed at the venue. Two rooms were provided for them to change their clothes. The men changed from their corduroy working pants, into blue surge suits and boots, only worn on Sundays and slicked their hair with water.  In their room the ladies changed from shawls and working dresses, into homemade fashions’ of the day, and applied homemade lipstick, and pinched their cheeks to give the effect of rouge, Mum, said the all looked stunning. There were over fifty people at the party who danced the night long in the lounge where the carpet had been lifted and all the furniture removed and placed in the main hall corridor. Frank had positioned himself in the dining room, which now acted as a bar using its unusual feature which was an outside window that looked into the lounge, which he opened to feed drink to the fiddler who played in that corner of the room, she said “his eyes were curled into a hoop which rose and fell and along with his double chin to the lilt of the music for sets, jigs, reels and he only stopped when someone was called to make mouth music which the area is and was  famous for; he had played as if he were “bewitched” both night and morning”. At the end of the festivities mother went to thank him and shake his hand and as she was doing so he collapsed in a heap from the amount of poteen he taken dispensed by Frank. The success of party was talked of for many years later by Frank; I had to take his word for it.

          Frank, was famous in the locality as the custodian of Elf stones, he showed them to me once when I was little. They were in a purple velvet bag with a draw string. I think there were about a dozen stones in all, they looked smooth and as if they might have consisted of basalt rock, perhaps picked up from a beach somewhere they were worn so smooth. But Donald can tell the story through another of his poems that also hangs on the Lounge wall.

                                         Elf Stones

Me beast has got the sickness, he is only skin and bone,

Will you ask Frank Mac Manamin to lend me the elf stones?

I measured him this morning from head down to the tail...

I twice did take the length myself and failed to get the same.

By Jove, sure Pat, he’s very bad, I’ll go at once for you

If you go down to John Joe to get the mountain dew.

They met again at Patrick’s, the stones and poteen got

They put the two together and boiled them in a pot

The mixture then they cooled it and popped it in a jar

Then spilled it down the bullock’s neck, the bottle in quite far.

“Bedad”! Said Pat to Michael... his ears did start to wag!

We fooled those bloody Elfeens...

Now would you like a fag?

Donald Craigie 1982

          Frank could be devious too. On one occasion I visited Shean just for the day, my cousin was in the lodge at the time along with about another twelve anglers, who decided on a sweep stake of twenty pounds a man. Frank chose to fish with me and we went to the lower part of the river. It was early spring and I caught a spent sea trout of about one and half pounds and was about to put it back in the water. Frank grabbed it and threw it in the fish bag. When I protested that fish was spent, he said they wouldn’t notice and no one did, it was the only fish caught and Frank and I shared the spoils. He would trot odd sayings, from time to time as the occasion demanded such as, Patience will take a snail America, or It’s the same as if one dog ate the other, and Up she goes’ I am still not entirely clear as to when a where they are to be used correctly.  

          All of us who knew Frank have their own stories to tell about him, but I will end by telling of his funeral, when so many of people came to say goodbye to him. I was travelling with my friends the two Johns and we met my Uncle Victor in Mulranny. We explained to him, we need to return to village to buy whiskey for the funeral house. Victor told us that no one would be drinking and not to bother. Just then a donkey began to bray behind a stone wall, it sounded as if it been told the best joke it have ever heard, and it might very well have been too.

FRANK RIP

 

 

 

 




                                                                                         




     
29

                                                                           A final dining room story

                                         

          Dad and his brother Jack were fishing in Shean probably in early May of 1948, when petrol became available again after the Second World War. The fishing in Shean was good, they had caught a brace of Springer’s each. Then the barometer began to rise, the sky became clear and the wind light and salmon prospects were not great. On the other hand, they were Ideal for dry fishing with spent gnat which they both adored. So they left the lodge and headed for Lough Sheelin. They arrived at Killnahard pier late in the afternoon, when all the anglers were out fishing, so the place was deserted. They removed the salmon from the hot car boot and put them in the boat to keep them fresh by throwing a wet sack over them. They caught a few trout and returned later that evening to the pier, at that time the majority of anglers dapped, (that is using a fourteen foot long rod with a silk blow line. This meant that the rod had to be held steady by the angler for hours at a time, some unkind people called may-fly fishing ‘duffers fortnight’. At that time, the anglers lodged in local farm houses which acted as B&Bs, after their dinner, they came down to the pier to see how the dry- fly anglers made out for their day. When the brothers landed at the pier there were a number anglers waiting to inspect their catch. They could see sitting in front of their cottage old Ned and his sister Brid who looked after the boats for all the anglers and also acted as Gilles, they were in the company of Barrington–Jellet who seemed to be in deep conversation with them. The consternation caused by Jack removing the four salmon from the boat was great among the anglers. It had been years since a salmon had been caught on the lake, so there were a lot of questions asked, to which my relations quite happily lied suitable replies. Eventfully, a very sceptical Old Ned, Brid and Barrington–Jellet arrived, to inspect the trophies. They had lived there all their lives by the lake, and thought it was nonsense and that the fish were taken on Sheelin. Barrington-Jellet a well know Barrister, whispered to the brothers that they were no more than common liars. He was very annoyed by the antics of the brothers, at the same time they whispered back an apology for the unintentional deception. “Why are we whispering” Dad said to Barrington-Jellet? Barrington-Jellet was about forty years old the same age as my father. He was over six feet tall and had a massive head of curly, brown hair; he was a little stooped for his age and had a face as white as driven snow. “I am dying," he said to them, "I am sorry for being so rude to just now, and I know it was only a joke” he said. “I got all the confirmation I needed, when I was dapping earlier today with Ned, a swallow landed on my rod, and Ned knew the myth that when a swallow lands on your dapping rod you are doomed and as good as dead, he rowed to the shore as fast as he  could and will not bring out me again. The brothers said their goodbyes to him, knowing they would never see him alive again and made a mental note to keep a close eye on the death notices in the paper. They drove home that evening distressed for their fellow angler. They knew although he had never married, he came from a large family and that if it were possible for medical science to help him money would be no object. They also knew he said, “The Doctors had given up on him”.

          The next may-fly season, the very first person the bothers met on Killnahard pier was Barrington-Jellet. He looked in the very best of health, in strong voice, straight as rush, and tanned as a sailor. They looked at him in disbelief and in a way that demanded an explanation which they got in his own words.

          “After the may-fly season I went on a round of final visits to hospitals’ and doctors with no result, it was clear I was going to die. Then I remembered what old Ned said about the Bean Feasa the wise woman. Ned said her name was Peg and that she lived up in the hills near Swanlinbar, I found her place, a thatched cottage surrounded by a small garden full of strange plants and trees. I knocked on the door and asked for the wise woman Peg, to be told that she had died two weeks earlier. I broke down and openly cried. I didn’t see who stood in front of me except I knew it was a woman. In my dejection I became angry.  Sir, she said “anger is like a hot coal you hold in your hand and want to throw to someone, but the only one you hurt is yourself”. I was walking away ashamed of myself, when she called out to me, “maybe, I can help you Sir” she said. I turned and came back the path and was invited into the cottage. It was bigger than I expected, as clean as a hospital and bright as sixpence. She sat me down and asked what my problem was. I explained everything and she asked would I like her to examine me. I had nothing to lose had I? There was a built in bed next to fire and she asked me to lie on it. She removed all my top outer clothing and took a long time to examine my throat. After an hour, she said “you have very bad cancer of the throat and are in need of immediate treatment”. “Can you do I asked her”? Yes she said, but you must come and live here with me for the treatment. I went home to put my affairs in order and returned to the cottage two days later. For three months she treated my neck and throat with poultices. One day of she would rub a tallow candle on the infected area, added fried onions, mustard powder and placed black paper over the poultice and covered it with a woollen cardigan. Next day, she got honey, thick cream and a dried cow pad and covered it in the same way and each time she added a small amount fine kaolin clay. These concoctions she called ciste uachtar or cake cream, and were put  around the infected part to a depth of one quarter of an inch. She was gone at first light each morning to gather these things for me.  She made me go to the holy well in Swanlinbar to pray for a cure each day and drink a half pint of the sulphurous water. At lunch time she gave me dandelion soup to drink along with my food. This routine lasted for three months, all the time my neck swelled, so I could no longer speak and I could hardly swallow or eat. I knew I hadn’t much time left to me and just when I thought I was going to die she said “to day I will remove your growth”. She got canvass cover and made it into a small tent and boiled a large kettle and made me strip my clothes and enter the little tent which had steam from the kettle coming into to it by means of a tube. I stayed in it for an hour; she then laid me on the bed, removed the poultice and said this is going to hurt.  She got a new razor blade from a packet. I put my hand on top of hers just as she was about to slit my throat. I could feel her strong pulse and see her delicate fingers and beautifully manicured nails and looked up at her as if it was the first time I had ever seen her. Her short bobbed blond hair, high cheek bones, classic Grecian face and two eyes like black pools that you wanted to go swimming in. Then she cut my throat.  This allowed the poison escape, she had bent over me and began to suck the poison from my neck just before I fainted. When I came too she had a small wooden skewer in her hand and was winding on to it what looked like a spider’s web, and I could feel the growth very gently pulled out of my throat. Next day she got red hot pin with a cork handle and cauterised the wound leaving a small hole in the centre. She boiled milk bottles in water and placed a hot empty inverted bottle over the open wound and allowed the vacuum from the cooling bottle draw any remaining poison out, this treatment lasted a week. I could now speak and eat again and owed my life to this young lady, who it turned out was the seventh daughter of a seventh son, and had returned to carry on her mothers work. I visit her often nowadays, and I never really had time for women before as you know, but do not be surprised if I am married to her by the next may- fly season” He said and went off singing in a loud voice and walking with long strong strides to his boat, where old Ned was waiting to take him dapping.



                                                    





                                                                             30     

 

I started my story with W H Maxwell and I shall end it with him too. I quote the full story of The Drowned Shepherd, as he has given it to us in Wild Sports of the West.    . I hope this might encourage you to read it which can be found on the internet by using Google or http://www.archive.org/stream/wildsportsofwest00maxwiala#page/80/mode/2up. I am fairly certain where the action takes place in this story is at the Shean boundary pool, I never look across to where the site of habitation is still clearly visible on the east side of the pool without saying a prayer for the poor Shepherd.

          “In 1822, when the western part of Ireland was afflicted with grievous famine, and England stepped forward nobly, and poured forth her thousands to save those who were perishing for want, a depot of provisions was established on the sea –coast for relief of the suffering inhabitants of this remote district.

          A solitary family, who had been driven from their low- land home by the severity of a relentless middle-man, had settled themselves in this wild valley, and erected the clay walls of that ruined hut before you. The man was a shepherd to a farmer who kept cattle on the mountains. Here, in this savage retreat, he lived removed from the world, for the nearest cabin to this spot is more than four miles distant.

It may be supposed that the general distress afflicted this isolated family. The welcome news of the arrival of succours at Ballycroy at length reached them, and the herdsman set out to procure some of the committee- meal to relieve the hunger of his half-starved family.

          On arriving at the depot, the stock of meal was nearly expended; however he obtained a temporary supply, and was comforted with the assurance that a large quantity was hourly expected.

          Anxious to bring the means of sustenance to his suffering little ones, the herdsman crossed the mountains with his precious burden, and reached that were stones are loosely piled.

          But during his absence at Ballycroy the rain had fallen heavily in the hills- the river was no longer fordable-a furious torrent of discoloured water rushed from the heights, and choked the narrow channel. There stood the returning parent, within twenty paces of his wrenched but dearly loved hovel. The children, with a cry of delight, rushed from the hut to the opposite bank to welcome him; but terrified by the fearful appearance of the flood, his wife entreated him not to attempt its passage for the present.

          But would he, a powerful and experienced swimmer, be deterred? The eager and hungry looks of his expecting family maddened the unhappy father. He threw aside his clothes. Bound them with the meal upon his back- crossed himself devoutly, and in the name of God, committed him-self to the swollen river.

          For a moment he breasted the torrent gallantly- two strokes more would bring him to the bank- when the treacherous load turned, caught him round the neck, swept him down the stream, sank, and drowned him. He struggled hard for life. His wife and children followed the unhappy man as he was borne away; and their agonizing shrieks told him, poor wretch! That assistance from them was hopeless. At last the body disappeared, and was taken up the following morning four miles from the fatal place. One curious circumstance attended this calamity; to philosophers I leave of fact. A herd of cattle galloped madly down the river-side at the time their unfortunate keeper was perishing; their bellowing were heard for miles, and they were discovered next morning, grouped around the body of the dead shepherd, in the corner of a sandy cove where the abated flood had left it”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

  


 
 

 

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